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Ok so I have a 1990 5.0 mustang LX.... So this all started one day, I changed batteries because the original one wouldn't hold a charge. I started the car before I took out the original battery started right up no problem. When I put in the new battery and tried starting the car it turned over fine but just wouldn't start so after awhile after looking to make sure everything was connected right I noticed that my fuel pump relay was clicking nonstop. This would stop when I unplugged the fuel pump relay. So thinking that was the problem I replaced the relay. No change. So over a period of time and doing a little research I started replacing things thought to be the problem. Items replaced- fuel pump relay, tfi mod, pickup coil, distributor, cap, coil, fuel filter, Eec power relay, inertia switch, oil sending unit. No luck.  But now my fuel pump stays on without the key even being on. Only thing I can think of is a bad computer or a faulty wire somewhere? I don't know what else to do. How can I check for a bad computer? Or does anyone have any other ideas of what could be going on? Any help would be much appreciated.
Classic Mustang Technical forum / Re: Engine misfiring -despite repairs!
« Last post by Topless_Horse on January 19, 2015, 07:03:23 AM »
So I'm wondering what the original symptoms were (you mention distributor cap and pouring rain)?  Did replacing the cap fix the problem completely?

You mention a high engine temperature and replacing a head gasket.  Did you have the head checked to see if it was warped or otherwise damaged when you had it off? 

You mention 289 but then later mention crate engine.  Which?  Are you sure that you have the plug wires going to the right cylinders?  The firing order for most crate engines is not the same as that for the 289.

Is the Pertronix wired per the manufacturer instructions (getting full 12V if called for)?

When you replaced the distributor are you sure you got it in the right place with respect to TDC?  If you missed your timing will be off and the engine will not run well.

Do you have a bunch of plug wires running in parallel close together?  Try separating them a bit and making them a little "messy" by crossing them at angles - especially if there are two together that fire in sequence.

Do you have a vacuum advance hooked up to the distributor?  Is it going to manifold vacuum or ported vacuum from the carb (should be going to ported vacuum).  Have you tried driving it with the vacuum advance disconnected from the distributor and plugged?

Are the spark plugs all the correct type and gapped properly?
Classic Mustang Technical forum / Re: Engine misfiring -despite repairs!
« Last post by Greg B on January 18, 2015, 08:07:39 PM »
Hey Topless,

It's virtually brand new but I've opened, cleaned it, blew it out with compressed air and reinstalled.  Thank you for your suggestion.

Classic Mustang Technical forum / Re: Engine misfiring -despite repairs!
« Last post by Topless_Horse on January 18, 2015, 07:49:28 AM »
Have you tried replacing the fuel filter?
Classic Mustang Technical forum / Engine misfiring -despite repairs!
« Last post by Greg B on January 16, 2015, 03:55:36 PM »
I have a '65 2+2  289 4brrl. I've restored and done most of the mechanical myself.  Was running great.  Last June drove 2500 miles of Rt. 66 from Chicago to Santa Monica Pier without one single problem. New "crate" engine at that point had about 5-8k miles on it.  Issues started on the drive back.   After several hours drive from Ca. past Las Vegas to Colorado in 103 degree heat (never overheated but was pegged at hight end of normal) and then climb to Vail, all hell started to break loose.  Initial problem was a bad dist. cap. (the pouring rain told me that.) But, it started getting worse.  Fast forward after a bunch of diagnostics and this is what I've done: replaced blown right side exhaust manifold gasket (noise issue when I rolled into the driveway); replaced distributor with Pertronix Flame Thrower and coil and replaced wires and plugs; replaced intake manifold gaskets;  replaced blown left head gasket (compression on 5 low- when head off 5 and 6 had scum on piston and cylinder at top - gasket visibly bad when removed).  These repairs done singly in this sequence.  Certain things got better; others did not.  At idle she is ok; under any load, she misses, bucks, etc.  Punch it at speed and the same happens. 

I've had a mechanic (an "older" guy who knows his stuff) look at it and, other than agreeing on changing the head gasket, he's been stumped. 

Possible issues: Fuel pump?  Bad valve adjustment?  Cracked intake manifold?  (Relatively new Edelbrock and when I called them they doubted crack.) 

L'il help?  I could really use some advice and suggestions.

Thank you for your input, after rebuilding carburator i realized it wasn't a flooding problem instead it was a firing problem even though i had fire it wasn't hot enough.I remembered about 35 years ago i had same problem i solved the problem with a new resistor in the distributor cap $4.00 fix.started first turn of the key.thanks for your input (I learned how to rebuild a  autolite 2100 carburetor)   
Have you checked to make sure that your choke is opening completely after the engine has warmed up?  If not that is a good place to start.

If the choke works properly flooding is usually is caused by either an incorrect float level or by a worn needle and seat.  You can buy rebuild kits for these carbs (just search for Autolight 2100 rebuild kit using your search engine of choice) and as long as you have basic tools and are reasonably well organized you can rebuild it yourself with no trouble.
Has anybody out there had this problem?
Mustang projects / 1966 MUSTANG RESTORE
« Last post by GLWHISENAND on January 01, 2015, 05:30:00 AM »
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