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Yes, it is possible to bend the rod but it has to be bent between the variable resistor and the stop rather than between the stop and the float.
It's possible that the arm is binding inside the tank so it can't move through it's full range of motion. It's also possible that the float has a small hole that let some fuel in it so it no longer floats on top of the fuel. Of course, it's also important that the sender assembly is the correct one for the tank and that it's installed correctly.
« Last post by adrien on February 12, 2014, 08:34:09 AM »
I'm very disappointed about my new gauge for my 66 GT convertible.
I tested it in all way outside the fuel tank and the gauge on the dash move well from E to F.
Inside... the gauge don't move before 30 liters and stop to the middle with the fuel tank full.
The wiring is perfect, no resistance.
I heard about bend the spindle to adapt to the fuel tank, is it really the way to fix this problem?
« Last post by GrAveTzT on February 06, 2014, 01:46:26 PM »
Old topic but what the heck.
The first thing you should check it the mass Airflow sensor, idle air control, and PCV valve.
Mass airflow sensor
It's all pretty easy. Pull off the mass airflow sensor and disconnect it from the wiring harness. You want to be careful with it. At the bottom there will be wires. Don't touch them, just put it on a table then spray the wires with mass air flow cleaner. Don't use other stuff. It'll dry in about 20minutes, come back spray it again, then once it's dry put it back together. Remember, other than the spraying don't be touching or messing with those wires because they are delicate and you'll be out about $170 if you break it.
You might as well check the other easy possible issues that could cause this.
idle air control
Pull the IAC valve out and clean the inside of it with throttle body cleaner, put it back on.
Pull that off. You will probably have to use a soft brush(wifes' toothbrush, haha), once all of that black junk is all gone. It's done. You may just want to replace it though because they are not that expensive. Maybe $18 or something like that.
After you've handled that do a test and start the car. I'm pretty sure it'll be fixed. If not then I am truly sorry and you can start getting mad.
It could be a vacuum leak, EGR valve, throttle position switch, or even the coil Packs.
« Last post by GrAveTzT on February 02, 2014, 09:36:18 PM »
I got a problem. In the spring I am moving to Ontario.
Now my mustang was not setup to care for emissions whatsoever. I have a 93 foxbody with a ton of mods on it. The problem is I don't even have C-converters or anything. Is there really any point of keeping it when there is no chance of passing the emission control thing?
« Last post by GrAveTzT on February 02, 2014, 09:27:05 PM »
Hey guys, I'm Justin from MB, Canada but more importantly meet Trixie
It has the trickflow eng kit and a ton of work in there.
Last fall, before storage for the winter, I just threw on the Pony R's with 315/35R's on the back and 315's on the front. Didn't even get a chance to drive on them much yet.
Good to meet you all.
The cars were not undercoated from the factory, just sprayed with red oxide primer. I really can't offer any useful advice beyond knowing that there are commercially applied products available or you can do a bit at a time with spray cans.
Also, I seem to be about the only one answering questions on this board anymore. I have some experience but I think you'd benefit from a wider experience base available on a board with greater participation. I also belong to the http://www.vintage-mustang.com/
crowd and find lots of good information there.
Best of luck with your project!!
« Last post by BareMetal65 on January 28, 2014, 09:20:58 PM »
Thanks South Dakota. Will get started on it. Got any good suggestions for undercoatings?
If they are the original leaf springs you should probably replace them. If they're not original to the car then you can just replace all the eye bushings and reuse them.
There are quite a few Mustang specialty suppliers (National Parts Depot, Glazier-Nolan, Mustangs Unlimited, etc.) that supply quality replacement parts. I replaced my leaf springs last year with the Grab-a-track 4 leaf units and am very satisfied with them.
« Last post by BareMetal65 on January 27, 2014, 08:06:02 AM »
OK. So on to the suspension. I have ALL the original parts on my 65 in my garage on the walls, floor, shelves, etc. How do I determine if I can reuse the leaf springs or if they need to be replaced? Do you recommend any particular kits for general daily driver restoration?
« Last post by BareMetal65 on January 26, 2014, 02:07:54 PM »
I thought of that and did and his answer was the same as yours. I just thought I would post the question and see what the pros/cons of doing this either way might be. Thanks for putting in your $0.02 worth.
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