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Mustang Discussions / Re: Need your input on buying a 1966 Convertible
« Last post by Topless_Horse on Yesterday at 05:54:45 AM »
Not to be too critical but it's an inline 6 (I6), not a V6.

You have to be patient.  If you are not you will probably end up with something that you should not have bought :-).

For early Mustangs (65-67, except Shelbys and cars equipped with High Performance V8s) there is no such thing as "numbers matching".  There's a date code on the engine (it's part of the block casting and is located down near the starter -  see for more info) but the VIN is only stamped on a couple places on the front shock towers.  Many of the Shelby cars and the HiPo cars should have all or part the VIN stamped on the engine block but not all will.  I think they started doing that on all cars somewhere around 1968.  "numbers matching" is only important if you have an early HiPo ("K" code in the VIN), any Shelby or one of the specialty cars with the big engines (a Boss car, an "S" code 390 or 428).  For the K code cars, Boss cars and Shelby cars having the correct engine is very important to the value.

Asking about engine condition is very important - whether it's been rebuilt, how long ago (miles and years), who did it, whether there are receipts available.  Ask about compression and oil pressure too.  Ditto the transmission.

Stick shift or auto is a personal preference - your choice.
Mustang Discussions / Re: Need your input on buying a 1966 Convertible
« Last post by burak on April 24, 2015, 10:50:08 AM »
Thank you Topless Horse!!

I think in a nutshell buying a V6 is not a good idea. I want to feel power driving this car. It seems so hard to find one these days especially one nearby.

Does the numbers matching matter? How important is it?

Should I ask anything about the engine like if and when it was rebuilt?

Stick shift vs automatic matter?

Thank you,
Mustang Discussions / Re: Need your input on buying a 1966 Convertible
« Last post by Topless_Horse on April 24, 2015, 06:14:13 AM »
I think that's a bit high for a 6-cylinder automatic car.  It appears to be in Illinois so I'd be very careful.  You need to inspect the underside for rust.  Mustangs tend to rust out the floor pans, trunk pan, shock towers, inside the cowl area (just below the windshield), the frame rails and the rocker panels.  If you see holes in any of those under-side components that are caused by rust you will need to repair the car.  Parts are available but labor and good shops are expensive.  You should also pour some water into both sides of the opening just under the windshield and check for water getting inside behind the carpet on the inside of the firewall.  If some does get in walk away.

Convertibles should have torque boxes (reinforcing plates welded to the front frame rails and the rocker panel).  They will be visible under the car just behind the front tires - make sure both sides are there and that they are intact.  They should also have a plate spanning the transmission tunnel attached with 6 bolts to the body a couple feet behind the transmission under the car.  Make sure that's there too.

If it has minimal rust you should drive it.  Make sure the steering is tight and that the engine and transmission work properly.  This is not going to be a fast car so if you want something with a lot of zip you might be better off with a V8 car (you can convert this one but it would be much less expensive and much easier to find a V8 car).

See if you can find a friend who knows classic cars to go with you to look at it.  If the dealer is not willing to show you the underside walk away - he's probably hiding something.
Your Mustangs / New member
« Last post by xbrit on April 22, 2015, 04:30:30 PM »
Hi Guys and Galls,
just thought I would introduce myself, we have just moved back from living in the USA for the last 15 years. I have to admit I restored a 72 Mopar and was going to bring it back to the UK but finances prevailed and I cashed it in.
Now I still need a bit of the America I grew to love and have been looking at a Mustang as a sort of hobby car. and if allowed to be part of this Forum , I am considering a V6 manual from the post MY 05 range.
I am a USA citizen and have been looking at sourcing a suitable vehicle over in the USA. Now I can purchase a suitable vehicle here in the UK for approx. 10,000 sterling but get a much better deal if I buy used in the USA.
Is it the view of the forum that by the time I have shipped, got UK certification and MOT etc. would I have got a better deal over there or just but locally here?
Mustang Discussions / Need your input on buying a 1966 Convertible
« Last post by burak on April 21, 2015, 11:05:48 PM »
Red 60s Mustang Convertible has been a long dream of mine and every spring I go digging for it.

I have located this one and was wondering if it is a good classic car to buy for the investment perspective ( I'll personally enjoy it for sure ).

Also what are the areas of concern I should look out for?

I'm really bad with cars so I'm afraid to get ripped off.

Thank you guys!!
5.0 Mustang technical forum / Ford Oil Light Reset Procedure (Free android app)
« Last post by red car on April 21, 2015, 09:14:20 AM »
Support 1996- 2015 Ford Lincoln Mercury.
Easy and accurate with step by step procedure.
You save time and money for Oil Maintenance Light Reset.

Get it on play store:
Update 4/19: Plan B.
Classic Mustang Technical forum / Re: 1967 Steering Wheel
« Last post by Topless_Horse on April 18, 2015, 02:48:50 PM »
It has the same style as the emblems used on the pop-open gas caps.  I would guess that someone adapted either that or maybe a center cap from a rim for the steering wheel center.  You can get the correct part from National Parts Depot (and probably elsewhere).  The NPD part number is 3649-1C and it's about $24
Classic Mustang Technical forum / 1967 Steering Wheel
« Last post by puntermd on April 17, 2015, 10:13:49 PM »
Hi All, the photo attached is of the steering wheel that was fitted to my 1967 Coupe. It appears to be an original factory type woodgrain wheel. The thing I can't figure out is the badge/emblem that is fitted to the pad. It doesn't seem to be from a Mustang. Can anyone help?
4.6 Mustang technical forum / Re: 98 4.6SOHC broken chain links
« Last post by ScaleCraft on April 13, 2015, 01:07:02 PM »
Here's the latest. Late last week, negotiations were completed, car picked up, driven home. Owner stopped by, asked me what that noise was. I told him to CAREFULLY drive it home and park it...and call the shop.
Wrecker coming to pick it up today.
Not out the block, but geez, it's bad.
I'll post what was found later after they yank it.
Al that shredded plastic that plugged the oil pump and filter, probably lifted the internal bypass on the filter and filed the oil galleries and probably the crank ports.
Not good.
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