Topic: Shopping for a mustang

[Nikolaeos]

I have a throbbing desire for a classic mustang.  A 1967 or 1968 Fastback to be more specific.  I'm just not sure on how to effectively look for one.  I want to find a project somewhere I can fix up rather than just buying one restored (no pride in that).  I want one in need of restoration, but not to the point that everything is rusting out and there is hardly any car left.  Here is something that meets a condition criteria : http://eugene.craigslist.org/car/605629386.html I could take a little more beat up to make the restoration more interesting.  My main question was is there any sites or directories in specific that sell old Mustangs and muscles in need of some TLC?  I have tried eBay Motors, but wasn't thrilled with how much competition from buyers there is.  I checked the FAQ, but nothing useful came up for me.

Thanks,
Jared

[Soaring]

I see you have already found Craigslist.  Most of the Mustang enthusiast sites have a for sale section.  I found mine in a local newspaper.  There are lots of car trader mags.  Look in any grocery store or outside convenience stores.  Advertise in the local paper for car wanted.  Keep your eyes peeled as you drive around neighborhoods.  Look on used car lots. 

[rmodel65]

that car doesnt look to bad, swing by a take a look if you like it make sure to loof for rust and signs of previous wrecks. its a lot cheaper to build a motor than do a ton of sheetmetal work. a stud finder works for checking for signs of body filler also a screw driver for checking for rotting floor pans, frame rails pour water down the grated area in front of the windshield see if it leaks inside the car. i believe there is some info in the faq's for what to look for more in depth if not come back and ask away we will get to it asap here

[Nikolaeos]

Sweet, thanks.  If I had an extra $2k laying around, I would definitely go check that out.  But, unfortunately I don't.  I'm trying to develop good habits for finding these old cars that aren't just a rust bucket.  The good news is is that I have a few ideas laid out to make the money I need.  A few lemonade stands in high-traffic areas here in town with 10 year old kids working for $5 an hour.  (Just kidding).  But thanks for the help, I will definitely keep these tips in mind.

[Soaring]

You are going to need more capital than a few thousand dollars to get a classic Mustang worth getting.  I bought mine for 5k 12 Years ago, and have put about 7K into it since.  And, it's just a plain Jane coupe.  Fastbacks and convertibles fetch premium prices these days. They are an expensive hobby, so consider the investment before you take the leap. 

[Nikolaeos]

Oh.  I have seen some Stangs around that, from the pictures, don't look half bad.  They aren't horribly expensive either.  Here is a perfect example : http://eugene.craigslist.org/car/601179810.html.  I haven't seen any Mustang that is very expensive that hasn't been restored in my area.

On another note, should I look towards auto wreckers for a Mustang?  Or are they usually so salvaged there is hardly a car left?

[Soaring]

The example you gave may look OK from the pictures, but may be a nightmare as a rust bucket.  You have to actually go inspect them personally before you even make a bid.  Therein lies the problem.  You have to pay for transportation to go see them, and in most cases you wind up not buying them because of massive rust issues.  As the old saying goes, " You get what you pay for" holds true especially with old Mustangs. 
My first suspicion with that one would be, "why is it in primer?"  Most likely it is a bondo queen.  Beware......

[Nikolaeos]

The example you gave may look OK from the pictures, but may be a nightmare as a rust bucket.  You have to actually go inspect them personally before you even make a bid.  Therein lies the problem.  You have to pay for transportation to go see them, and in most cases you wind up not buying them because of massive rust issues.  As the old saying goes, " You get what you pay for" holds true especially with old Mustangs. 
My first suspicion with that one would be, "why is it in primer?"  Most likely it is a bondo queen.  Beware......

Thanks for the advice.  I would have never bought anything, especially a car, without checking it out first anyway.  But I didn't even think about why it is coated with primer.

[66GTKFB]

Try an old junk yard trick when you go looking. Put a piece of masking tape over a small magnet and then run the magnet over any suspected Bondo covered areas. The tape minimizes scratching, keeps the owner from yelling too. Try the magnet trick on your car to get the feel. Remember, it don't work on aluminum bodys. Keep in mind, it's a lot easier to work on a 'clean' car than a dirty one. Don't even bother with one that's got rust on the floorboards unless you can weld sheetmetal to look like spotwelds.
Jim

[Soaring]

And, you really need to look in the southwestern and southern California parts of the country, because I can almost guarantee you that any snow country mustang for sale is a rust bucket. 
There was a 66 "A" code coupe for sale in my little Texas town a few months ago, and the owner was asking 7K for it, and it needed a paint job and a new interior.  That would add about 6K to the price, making a coupe worth about 13K with no mechanical upgrades.  But, it was rust free.  So, for a 67 fastback that is rust free but needs maybe a paint job and some other cosmetic work, you are looking at 15K and up.  Especially the 67 model.   That is what the famous "Eleanor" Mustang in the movie was.  So, every idiot on the planet wants a 67 Mustang fastback to turn it into an Eleanor. 

[Thierry]

And, you really need to look in the southwestern and southern California parts of the country, because I can almost guarantee you that any snow country mustang for sale is a rust bucket.

There is some nice original classics in snow locations too. My next door neighbor has a Mustang convertible. She bought it new in 1965 and only used it during sunny days. The car is not perfect but I checked everywhere and I didn't see any sign of rust. Salty roads can make a lot of damage to cars and the good side of it is that many of them are stored and only come out in the summer.

[Soaring]

And, you really need to look in the southwestern and southern California parts of the country, because I can almost guarantee you that any snow country mustang for sale is a rust bucket.

There is some nice original classics in snow locations too. My next door neighbor has a Mustang convertible. She bought it new in 1965 and only used it during sunny days. The car is not perfect but I checked everywhere and I didn't see any sign of rust. Salty roads can make a lot of damage to cars and the good side of it is that many of them are stored and only come out in the summer.

Obviously, there are going to be exceptions to the rule, but the general rule is that  "Most" classic mustangs that have been driven in the snow country are rust buckets.  If you can find that illusive one of a kind that grandma only drove to church on Sunday and only in the summertime, or the illusive story book "barn" find in the snow country that is rust free, then consider yourself "very" lucky.  Personally, I wouldn't waste my time looking for a classic Mustang in the snow country. 

[Thierry]

 I don't know about the northern locations in the States but Canada has more rust free classics than you may think. I know many car fans over here with modern Corvettes and Vipers who never use them in winter. In summer I see newer Mustangs every days on the roads but very few in the winter. In 30 years these cars if treated the same way will be in much better condition than the ones used all year long in dry locations. The problem with rust free Canadian classics is their higher price compared to the equivalent in the States.

[Soaring]

I don't know about the northern locations in the States but Canada has more rust free classics than you may think. I know many car fans over here with modern Corvettes and Vipers who never use them in winter. In summer I see newer Mustangs every days on the roads but very few in the winter. In 30 years these cars if treated the same way will be in much better condition than the ones used all year long in dry locations. The problem with rust free Canadian classics is their higher price compared to the equivalent in the States.

Sure, you have rust free classic mustang cars in Canada, but they are/were not driven in the winter with snow and salt.  Back in the 1960's, the Mustang was just another cheap car, so was driven year round.  If it wasn't, then it was a rare exception.  Like I said before,  the best place to look for a rust free classic Mustang will be in the Southwestern part of the United States where it doesn't snow, and no salt is put on the highways to melt the snow and ice, therefore causing rust on the cars. 

[66GTKFB]

What's - 'snow'?

[rmodel65]

What's - 'snow'?

+1

[Nikolaeos]

I'm definitely in snow country, Willamette Valley in Oregon.  So, now seeing that every tard and his mother want a 1967 Fastback to make an "Eleanor" car, I will be perfectly content with a '68 or '66 and even a coupe.  I personally don't see the point in making a car everyone else has.  I don't think it will be easy to spend more than $8,000 on the car itself, seeing that I'm 16 and no real job is available.  So my only option really is internet marketing.  And again, thanks for all the tips guys.  Probably will save me headaches in the future.

[Soaring]

You sound like a very wise teenager to research before you get your heart ahead of your head.  My first car back in 1961 was a 1951 Chevrolet that I paid $275.00 for.  During the winter I worked as a soda jerk in the local drug store, and made .50 cents an hour.  Well, I saved every penny I made and finally came up with the $275.00 to pay for my first car.  Back then, a 10 year old car was a worn out car.  It burned oil and everything, but I loved it because it was mine, and I paid for it.  There is nothing like the love of ownership when you pay for it yourself as a teen.  You can always buy your dream Mustang later in your life when you have your university degree and your decent income.  Be patient........