Soda blasting will only remove paint and it won't harm the trim or the glass from the car. The problem is it won't remove rust or undercoating. For the underbody I would rather use sand and if you have it done by professionals, they should know what they are doing.

Yeah, soda blasting will eventually get all the crud off, but sand would be faster.  Are you talking about Mag 500's?  If so, they only come in 14 and 15 inch wheels.  If you are thinking about big assed wheels on that Mach, then you need to go with Torque Thrusts or American Racing.  Personally, I think a nice set of 15" Mag 500's would be bitching on that Mach.  Here is what I have on my old 65 Yeller.  You can get them at a lot of the Mustang vendors. 

 Ebay also has some set of Mag 500 wheels. I also think they would look great on your 73.

I found a few pics of underneath and it is said but hopefully you have seen worse and if not tell me you have anyways. Nah, it should look be taken care of after the sand blasting. What is great to spray it with after blasted? I know underbody spray, but what can you use to seal it and or is there somehting out there that is great for the wheel wells and front end. Rmember I have done nothing under her yet o be easy on me,lol. STANG OUT

 I must have missed your pictures and it's always good to bump a topic . The underneath doesn't seem bad at all and I don't see the need to sand blast it. Using sand paper would be the cheap way to go but it would take a lot of your time. I would say a good coating of POR15 on top of that rust should be enough to neutralize it.

Russ, I concur with Thierry.  You have a lot of surface rust under there, but a good coat of a rust inhibitor such as POR 15, or Zero rust, or Rust Be Gone will stop the rust in it's tracks.  Then, after a few days of letting it dry completely, you will see that the metal parts that used to be rusty looking will be black and hard to the touch.  Now, since these products are also primers, all you have to do is hit it with color to prevent future rust and make it all blend in.    I would use semi-gloss black on the front area, and red oxide on the rear area like from the San Jose plant.   Or, what the hell, paint the entire chassis/undercarriage with a semi-gloss black except for the mufflers.  They should be silver.   

If you are going to do it, do it right. Remove the plumbing and clean the affected area by what ever means possible; grind, blast, scrape, wire brush, paint remover, etc. Don't get into the habit of doing it twice. This ain't the military.
Jim

Yeah, rhino ain't no joke, and just a good paint underneath of her will do... I will get that crap out of there

As most of you guys know I was suppose to go back to Kansas and try to get her a little closer too finished. Well with Drill Sergeant School only three weeks out and the cost of Gas killing the World minus the Middle East, I deiced to stay home. I don’t like to go back there and be rushed trying to get a part another 5% done only to leave her again.

  I understand that is how you go about get a project done, but having it 750 miles really makes you spend a lot more time getting to her than you can spend on working on her. I know this might sound weird to the Average mustang lover but remember that my Wife bought me this car while I was in Iraq and I am the second owner, of a all factory car which is a big value in MY EYES.

  I have asked for many opinions in the past, and I have gotten a lot of great help. I have even gone as far as trying to buy a home so I can get a garage for my car. I am still going to buy a home, but I have to wait until school is complete.

  I will leave you with this for now without dreams we are Average and without goals we are looking for Dreams and without goals why are we here.

yeah I bought both patch panels and I am having them put on by someone that I really trust, so they should look great. the driver side is good but I got a better deal getting both so why not, right.......