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[Thierry]

Here is another question coming from the french section.
Any idea where this hose goes? It's coming from the firewall side of the carburetor on a 66 Mustang with a 289.

[Soaring]

There are two copper tubes attached to the exhaust manifold that provide heat to the carburetor.  One stays copper all the way to the choke.  The other is copper until the last foot, then it becomes rubber. They are both covered in a white fiberglas material to retain heat.  This may be an unattached tube. It appears the one in question is the one that attaches to the underside of the top of the carburetor.  That choke arrangement he has does not look right as the tube that is attached to the exhaust manifold is also attached to the choke.  He may have some aftermarket headers and the original arrangement is FUBAR.  I am trying to attach a couple of pertinent pictures. If he wants it original, he has to get rid of that crap and make it right. 
I would like to see some decent pictures of exactly what he has because these pics are not descriptive enough of what is actually on his engine.  Tell him to take ten or twelve in-focus pictures of his engine bay and up-close pics of the tubes in question so we can give more pertinent advice. 
Jim will be along shortly to correct me.  That's OK......I have a 65, and there are some small differences in the 66's. 

[ ERROR: SPECIFIED ATTACHMENT MISSING ]

[66GTKFB]

In Canada you need those two tubes only to keep the choke closed until the engine heats up enough to open the choke and lower the fast idle. My 'K' car has a manual choke but my other two have the tubes. It's a cold weather necessity - even in California when the temp gets to 40 F overnight (today at 6:30am it was 49 - high of 73F). The tubes are made from steel, not copper, as copper would melt from the exhaust heat. I would recomend that you get a National Parts Depot catalog - http://www.npdlink.com/ - and use it as a reference tool to identify parts and application. NPD has new replacement choke heater fitting and screen kit that replaces the old one on the underside of the RH manifold. I got two in my last order and got to figure out away to remove the old ones - easily.
Jim

[Soaring]

Copper tubes won't melt from the air heat from the exhaust hot air.  Where did you come up with that ridiculous theory Jim?    Bottom line, is that he has the wrong choke system for a 1966 289 with a Motorcraft 2100 carburetor.  And, no those two tubes are not only used in the cold country.  My 65 289 was built in the San Jose, California plant.  Yes, the DSO was Denver, but it could have been sent to a warmer climate from San Jose, and mine was sent to an even warmer climate from Denver to west Texas. 
I just got through working with my front brakes, and had to deal with the copper/brass tubes that came with the original brake system.  I had to use a few sections of the originals because the steel lines didn't work.  Yes, the originals were copper/brass.  Ford also used copper/brass tubing on their carburetor tubing back then.   

[66GTKFB]

Glen, 
  I got an original almost un-restored 65 in my garage, a GT Fastback. The tubes are steel. They are original. Yes, all cars had the automatic choke setup but in Southern California and in Florida too, most of the chokes were either disabled or set so they were hardly ever set. It was start the car and go. Exhaust manifold temperatures get to be somewhere between 700 and 1000 degrees F, hot enough to burn off any covering and hot enough to bond copper to cast iron, ergo, a steel tube. On early 64 V8 Mustangs with a 2 barrel carb, the rubber transition tube was connected to the air cleaner instead of the carburetor via a small 1/4 inch dia tube thru the base on both the old small top air cleaner and on the same basic large style used thru 1968 on 289 engines.
Jim

[Soaring]

Then I must have a bastard, because my 65 289 which is original has the fiberglas covering over a brass/copper tube that leads to the carburetor from the exhaust manifold as can be seen in the picture. It is 43 years old and hasn't burned off yet, and the tubing has not melted to the manifold.  Also, mine is a true 65 because the build date is March of 1965.  So, it is not an early 64.  Therefore, the rubber tubing for the last foot or so is from a 65, and not an early 64.
I don't think it matters what type of tubing or what covering is on the tube is the question here.  He is asking what is the tube for, and where does it hook up.  I think we have answered his question. 

[Thierry]

 Yes, I think it answered his question but in case he asks more where does the second tube from the header connect to?
 About the material of the tube I checked in various parts websites and only steel or stainless is available. It doesn't mean the original ones were not made of copper but it doesn't seem we can buy them.
http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog/classicmustangparts-c13s8.html
Thanks Glen and Jim.

[66GTKFB]

Aha! The 64 dollar question. The correct routing is - from a tube that is part of the carburetor on the lower RH side to the fitting pressed in to the lower side of the exhaust manifold via a rubber tube at the carb and a steel tube the has a right angle bend at tht manifold. The second tube come out of 1/4 inch dia hole at the top of the manifold directly above the first tube, to the choke housing where it is attached by a threaded fitting. This second tube is covered by a cloth insulator (I don't want to say asbestos, but similar) and both tubes are held together by an 'S' shaped clip.
Get a NPD catalog for the 'show and tell' feature.
Jim

[Soaring]

Thierry,
Look at my last picture.  The tube that goes to the choke plugs in on top of the "Choke Stove" which is connected to the top of the manifold.  The one he's holding connects underneath the manifold.  I got to thinking, and realized it is possible that the previous owner replaced the steel tubes with copper ones before I got the car from him.  And what Jim says makes sense.  So, I stand corrected.  They should be steel.
Now, if this Frenchman has a modified 289 with headers instead of manifolds, then nothing I have said applies.  If he has headers, he will
have to buy a special part that I have listed in the FAQ.  If he wants to go electric for a choke, have him give you his address in France, and I will send him a choke pull off made for an electrical hookup for a Motorcraft 2100 carburetor. 

[rmodel65]

eh i dont have any of that stuff

[Soaring]

eh i dont have nay of that stuff

What kind of headers are you running Steve?

[rmodel65]

tri-y headers

[Thierry]

 I guess he has the original manifold from what I can see in a photo he posted a while ago.

 I will give him your tips. I aslo ordered a catalog from NPD and told him to do the same. Thanks 

[Soaring]

If that pic is his engine, then yes, he has the original exhaust manifolds.  Steve can advise him on replacing them with headers if he wishes to go that direction.   I really feel for him being in France and trying to rebuild a classic Mustang.  Man, the shipping costs for parts will eat him alive.  Depot is a good parts place, but so are a few others.  I have catalogs from CJ pony parts, Texas Mustang, Mustangs unlimited, larry's Mustang, Dallas Mustang, and  California Mustang.  If it is a small part, I usually get it from Texas Mustang because that is the closest to me and shipping costs are kept down. If you are from California then California Mustang or Larry's will be your choice if they have the part you need.  If you are in the midwest or East, then NPD will be your choice, but any body parts should be bought from NPD or CJ pony parts.  Since he is in France, and the shipping cost is the same from any of these vendors, I would recommend NPD http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com and CJ Pony http://www.CJPonyparts.com because they are two of the biggest mustang supply places in the United States.  Tell him that we wish him luck with his restoration and to keep asking questions.  We are happy to help.   

[Thierry]

 I restored a Mustang in France but the prices were still much cheaper than the ones from an ordinary modern European car. Of course, you can't order the parts individually. I had the chance to have an American neighbor who use to do group orders once a month so the shipping cost was not that bad. All I had to do was to walk to his garage and come back with the parts under my arms 
 Stangmu (his nickname) also has an US car parts company in his city and that helps.
 If you are interested about what happens in the other side of the Atlantic here is another Mustang restoration project from France started 6 years ago and still far from being done.
1970 Mustang Mach 1

[Soaring]

Well, your current French friend is not nearly as far along as the 1970 project, but tell both of you French friends that I wish them luck.  They seem to have their shit together, so don't need much help from us. 

[Thierry]

 The member with the 70 project only came to show his car so I guess he doesn't need our help but Stangmu is only 20 years old and he seems to be a worse mechanic than me. That's hard to beat 

[Soaring]

The member with the 70 project only came to show his car so I guess he doesn't need our help but Stangmu is only 20 years old and he seems to be a worse mechanic than me. That's hard to beat 

OK, then why doesn't Stangmu talk with the member with the 70 project? 

[Thierry]

 I am not sure, but the owner of the 70 project never posted anything since he showed his car and there is not many exchange between members in that section. They all start their own topics and I am the only one answering them

[Soaring]

OK, well, did the Stangmu get his answer and thank us by sending each a vintage bottle of Red from Alsase?