Topic: What is wrong with this picture? Help

[65springtime]

I am installing the Pertronix Ignitor and coil and other new parts but have a few questions.
1. I got the one wire coming from the points but what is that other wire on the coil and what is it for? It is not hooked to the distribtor. Does it need to be hooked back up to the coil and if so how? I have two wires coming to the new coil.
2. Befor I install the Pertronix, does any of the parts that it mounts to need to be cleaned up?
3. Yes, I know. The person who (not me) put on the new water pump has a leak somewhere as can be seen in picture. That is coming from somewhere. Guess I have to remove all and reinstall myself.
Any help would be appreciated. John

[65springtime]

Also, where is the best place to get a new vacuum advance control for the new pertronix and  line? I guess this would be question #4.

[66GTKFB]

If that's your current distributor you have a lot more to do before a Pertronix system is installed.
1. There are two wires (plus the high voltage to the distributor) involved, one from the coil terminal marked "-" or "GND" that goes to the distributor and the second from the coil terminal marked "+" or "BAT" that is inside a common wiring harness with the oil pressure sender and water temperature sender that goes to the firewall, transistions to the "resistance wire" and then to the ignition switch. There is another wire in the circuit that bypasses the resistance wire when starting. From your pictures you are missing the distributor to coil wire. Pertronix recomends that you run a wire direct from the coil "+" to the ignition switch IF you have problems. Mine works fine without the extra wire.
2. Clean everything well enough that you will not have a problem putting it on the dining room table at Thanksgiving dinner (naturally before any required lubrication). That means the base plate in the distributor. You will need some mounting screws too.
3. Yes.
4. You need a vacuum advance diaphram (National Parts Depot,  http://www.npdlink.com/ 12370-A, $39.25, don't bother with the repro ones, they're crap) and the screws (NPD 12370-1K $1.50).
I also strongly recomend that you get a set of 1965 Mustang Assembly Drawings. The electrical set includes wiring diagams, harness routings and color codes.
Jim
 

[65springtime]

Jim,
  I pulled the wire from the distributor to the coil that is why you do not see it. So I leave the wire that is now on the coil (which will be the flamethrower) and add the other two wires to the coil from the Pertronix system? What  lubrication? Do I need to put some kind of grease on it? I guess you can tell I am not good in the engine compartment. Good thing these Mustangs are sorta easy to work on. But easy for some is not so easy with others like me.

[Soaring]

While you have it torn down that far, I would pull the intake manifold and get that all cleaned up.  Find out where that water is coming from and repair it before venturing forward. 

[65springtime]

  Good idea Glen. Yes, I am planning on tearing the water pump and hoses and thermostat down also to fix the leak. I will pull the intake and get it cleaned up and I want to paint as much of the engine black as I can. Should I use a brush on the engine? I already got the right gold and painted the air cleaner and the snot black but still have to paint the valve covers as you can see.
Is there a easy way to adjust the valves while the valve covers are off. I have never done it befor. I also want to paint the whold engine compartment and if not "too" hard, replace most of the wires. The plug wires is no problem but will be needing new wires and wire holders(I am sure that is not what they are called) for the new wires. But just going to take my time. John

[Joe AZ 2 PA]

If you have the time and want to do the engine compartment right the first time consider pulling the engine. Once it's out you can also check it over for other issues and also replace the freeze plugs before they rust out on their own. Lot's of sources for new wiring and anything else you may need. Take your time and it will be worth the effort in the long run. . . . 

[65springtime]

  Thanks Joe but do not think I want to do that at this time. For now I will just work on the top side and maybe the exhaust manifold. You are right. That would be the best way to do the engine. But I will have the engine gone through someday down the road but other than some small things the engine runs pretty good just a little rough and I am sure that will clear up after I get all the new parts on. Does not smoke or use oil and no drips except for the antifreeze leak. 

[65springtime]

(naturally before any required lubrication).
 You need a vacuum advance diaphram (National Parts Depot,  http://www.npdlink.com/ 12370-A, $39.25, don't bother with the repro ones, they're crap) "

Where does the required lubrication go? I checked on the vacuum advance diaphram you talked about above  but it says you** must reuse internal springs, washers and end fitting from original advance unit** What does this mean? Thanks, John

[66GTKFB]

To get the proper advance curve, there are "things" inside the vacuum advance diaphram that are changed. They include a spring, a stopper and shims (washers). The end fitting holds all them in place. Get a NPD catalog as it has a diagram of these items. For 64-66 Mustangs the end fitting has a threaded hole for the tube to the carburetor. Later fittings have a post for a rubber tube. The cheap diaphram has everything sealed inside and one size fits all.
Lubrication should be applied to the surface of any moving items. Just a tiny dab of Lithium grease works fine. With points, lubrication was applied to the lobes where the tab of the points touches.
Jim

[65springtime]

 So on the new one you are talking about like the one in the picture, I need to take the end off on the front and use all these used parts in there and put them into the new one? Why get a new one if you are using the old parts??

[Soaring]

I am frugal, so use all the used parts that still work.  I just clean them up and keep on honking.  As far as the valve adjustments are concerned, you don't need the engine running.  Check with the FAQ for that procedure.  Just make sure you get all that oily work done before painting. 

[66GTKFB]

So on the new one you are talking about like the one in the picture, I need to take the end off on the front and use all these used parts in there and put them into the new one? Why get a new one if you are using the old parts??

The "new" ones do not have the spring, stop or spacers, all those items were specific to generate the correct vacuum curve for each application (MT is different than AT, 2 barrel is different than 4 barrel, 64 is different than 66) so to keep each correct one in stock would be a nightmare. The answer is reuse the old stuff. The end cap should be replaced though.
Jim

[65springtime]

How do you take it apart?  It is just hard to believe you need to use the old parts. But I need help finding out how to take it apart. So if you buy a new one you can not use it as it is? Hmmm.

[66GTKFB]

A Picture worth 1000 words.
Jim

[65springtime]

Hey thanks, that is worth a 1000 words. I love pictures.