Topic: valve adjustments

[jonlyjayman]

  Hi-  New here and need advice on "ticky" valves. It's a 71 Mach1. TKO 5 speed, bought it 4 yrs ago, it runs great,great power. Engine is not stock. 351C 11:1 compression, 4v heads, screw in studs, roller tappets, hydraulic lifters.
    I had some "ticking" in the valve covers so I thought I'd pull valve covers for the first time since owning the car. Basically I could shake around every rocker arm and tightened them all, while having the opposing valve in each cylinder open.
    The ticking has not gone away, maybe slightly worse, but car idles much better-(better Vacuum?).
    What the heck am I doing? I'm really not too sure how to proceed, but I'm not afraid to get in there. Valve covers way easy to remove. Should motor be warm? What about hydraulic lifter pumping up?   is there a good article that covers these adjustments?  Thanks

[lovehamr]

Shouldn't be a big deal man.  I do valves going by the firing order and adjusting each at what would be TDC on that cylinders compression stroke.  I have a Dizzy cap cut in half with the cylinders numbered in the proper order so when the pointer in the dizzy is pointed at say cyl.#3 that will be the intake and exhaust valves that I adjust.  Or you can start at TDC compression on number 1 cyl. (Pointer at "0") then just rotate the crank 1 quarter turn clockwise to get to the next one in the firing order and just work it all the way around.  At each cylinder start spinning the pushrod with your fingers and feel for drag as you tighten the rocker nut, when you first feel drag on the pushrod tighten the rocker nut 1/4 turn more and lock it at that point.  This is to get the hyd. lifter's piston in the center of it's throw so that it can function as it should.  Do this for all 16 and the world should be aligned.  Let us know what you find because if you wind up with some wild funky adjustments it could mean other problems like collapsed lifters or flattened cams.

Hope that helps, Steve

[jonlyjayman]

  Thanks for the reply steve. I'm not sure what a Dizzy cap is, and I don't have any fancy tools. What I tried to do was work off 1 head at a time. To get a valve fully seated, I was turning motor with big ratchet on the front pully. I watched the other valve-in the same cylinder- and when 1valve just barely starts to move, the other is fully seated, correct?  (does overlap throw my idea off??). at this point I should do as you stated and twist pushrod, going 1/4 turn past it beginning to drag. How do I lock the nut? or just leave it 1/4 turn past? 
    My described method of insuring valve seated fully..... is the only way I can think of to avoid having to find TDC on compression stroke.  Is there an easy way to find TDC which is time both valves fully closed???
    Thanks steve, jay

[lovehamr]

  Thanks for the reply steve. I'm not sure what a Dizzy cap is,

  Sorry Jay, that's short for distributor cap.  I just sawed the top off so the rotor would show what cylinder to work on.

 

and I don't have any fancy tools. What I tried to do was work off 1 head at a time. To get a valve fully seated, I was turning motor with big ratchet on the front pully. I watched the other valve-in the same cylinder- and when 1valve just barely starts to move, the other is fully seated, correct?

No. 

(does overlap throw my idea off??).

Yes.

at this point I should do as you stated and twist pushrod, going 1/4 turn past it beginning to drag. How do I lock the nut? or just leave it 1/4 turn past? 

If you are using the factory lock nuts then just leave them in the right position.  If they are old and easy to turn then you may want to look into poly locks to make sure the rockers stay where you want them.

My described method of insuring valve seated fully..... is the only way I can think of to avoid having to find TDC on compression stroke.  Is there an easy way to find TDC which is time both valves fully closed???
    Thanks steve, jay

Start by putting a mark on the dist. housing below the cap and lined up under #1 cyl plug wire.  Then with the cap off, rotate the crank so the rotor is at that mark.  Then look down at the timing pointer, it should be only about 15 degrees or so from zero.  Then use your big rachet again to rotate the crank so the pointer is at zero on the damper.  Now you're at TDC compression.  If you really want to check, both valves should be seated and you can pull the #1 spark plug, use a screw driver gently through the hole to feel for the piston (it'll be there ).  Then adjust #1's valves.  After that all you have to do is rotate the crank 1/4 of a turn to do each subsequent cylinder in it's firing order.

Steve

[lovehamr]

351C 11:1 compression, 4v heads, screw in studs, roller tappets, hydraulic lifters.

I just noticed this and have to ask.  You state "roller tappets" then "hydraulic lifters".  Tappets and lifters are the same thing.  Do you mean roller rockers?  If so then you should already have poly locks.  So look at these sites and if you still have questions don't hesitate to ask.
http://www.pontiacpower.com/faqs6.htm
http://www.kustombitz.com/UserFiles/2024-Files/file//YellaTerra%20Brochure-PosiLocks-rocker-studs-pushrod-guide-plates.pdf
http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/006804.html

Steve

[jonlyjayman]

By roller tappets-I mean when valve covers are off, and I mess with the rocker arms-there are small rollers that push down on valve stem. I emailed the guy I bought car from and he said they are hyd. lifters--not solid lifters. Am I using the wrong phrase? I remember an old v8 I owned-72 Grande 302...and it had no roller on rocker arm....just metal on metal pushing down valve stem. What do I have?   Thanks Steve...........Jay

[lovehamr]

You've got roller rockers and flat hydraulic tappets.  There are several types but that really doesn't matter right now.  What is holding them on the stud?

Steve

[jonlyjayman]

   the rocker arms are held on with a half-circle looking thing, then a nut on top of that.........the half circle thing is sitting inside the hollow part of rocker arm.  Thanks for your help steve, I really am not a huge car guy--just love mustangs.

[jonlyjayman]

    Also Steve....Should I drive the car to get oit all warmed up before adjusting the valves?   Or is cold engine OK<  Thanks,  Happy ThanksGivin'     Jay

[lovehamr]

First, cold is fine.  Is there any way that you van post a pic of your rockers?  Or do they look like one of these:



or one of these?



The ones on top should have this type of nut with lock;


And the lowers would look like this:

[jonlyjayman]

 Mine look like the second ones, and the last picture looks like the nuts that hold mine on. I'll probably get to doing them next week as I'm visiting my parents in NY. And if cold is okay, I'll just do it cold. Once it's all done correctly, it should have minimum "tick", correct? Assuming I have no other problem?
  Thanks Steve................Jay

[lovehamr]

Once it's all done correctly, it should have minimum "tick", correct?

Yup.

[Soaring]

Just in case you don't know how to adjust those hydraulic valves Jon,  here is a simple guide.  If the ticking continues, then just turn up the radio volume.   
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html

[lovehamr]

Dude's name is Jay.

[Soaring]

Sorry 'bout that.  Jay it is....   

[jonlyjayman]

you can call me Ray, You can call me Jay.......or Jon...
  I just apprecite the help.

[Soaring]

  Reminds me of an old song.   

[lovehamr]

you can call me Ray, You can call me Jay.......or Jon... 

......................."But ya dosen't have to call me Johnson!"

I can't remember the name of the comedian that used to do that bit.   I'm afflicted with CRS.