Topic: question about a ford mustang engine rebuild

[joeyemma]

I have a 1965 Ford Mustang convertible with an old a tired 289 2 barrel engine in it. I am going to replace the engine with the same type of engine rebuilt. My question is the core...should I keep my original core to rebuild down the road. I am hearing from some that there is not VIN on the 65 engine so there is no way to tell if it is the ORIGINAL engine for this car. I just bought the car 3 months ago so I have no way of knowing if this is in fact the original engine. Should I just return the core to the re-build company or will my car be more valuable down the road if I keep the core and either re-build it and put it back in the car eventually or does it even make a difference? Thanks

[66GTKFB]

There is an engine assembly date stamped on the left hand front of the block. This is about the only verification of originality. You can see the stamping by standing on the left front looking at the bolt that holds distributor clamp and look down about 4 inches to where the long bolt that holds the water pump to the enging goes into the engine. The stamping are about 1/4 inch tall and will have the year (4, 5 or 6 etc), the month in letter form (A = January, M = December, no 'I' used), the day of the month and a code letter of the inspector/assembler - 5H27Z.
Try to re-use your original block.
Jim

[joeyemma]

ok...this is what I found on the engine.....

289 with a 7 underneath it

then C 60-E9495A

on the door panel...76A R26 11T2361

VIN  5FO8C754226

Is this the car's original engine?

Thanks

[66GTKFB]

ok...this is what I found on the engine.....

289 with a 7 underneath it

then C 60-E9495A

on the door panel...76A R26 11T2361

VIN  5FO8C754226

Is this the car's original engine?

Thanks

With the info you provided, I still don't know. Where was the '289 with a 7 underneath' located? The 'C 60 E9495A' does not compute. Look again, it may be the manifold casting number which would read 'C6OE-9425-A'. The car's build date (11T) from the door data tag indicates June 11, 1965, and is in the range of your VIN. The impotrant engine assembly date you seem to have ignored. Reread my previous, grab a rag and wire brush, clean off that 'boss' that extends from the engine and read the stamping.
Jim

[joeyemma]

I can't see the date stamp because the block is so dirty and cruddy (I will find it when the engine comes out and is stripped down and cleaned) but I did find the engine tag...it was still on the block...it read...

289 65 7

5-E

65

I know that could have been put there by somebody, but I doubt it.  I would say the engine is original...any thoughts?

[66GTKFB]

I'm still at a loss. The tag is an aluminum plate about 2 1/2 inches long and 3/4 inches wide with a 3/8 inch clearance hole to bolt it to the intake manifold. The format is as follows:
Line one -
289 C 65 7
engine size, assembly plant, year change level
Line two -
5-E 246
Year of production, change level.
Like I said, a wire brush and a rag and you will have the best info.
Jim

[Don A]

Sounds like you guys got off the subject--Insofar as keeping the core---I would say yes--In fact if you have not already committed to another engine I would recommend having your own rebuilt---The reason is that you know what you are starting with--The core of the rebuilt engine that you buy may have a history tht you might get sick over.  Such as a destructive overheat or oil loss-Or cracks that have been repaired--etc-etc-

[66GTKFB]

joeyemma was looking for a way to see if the engine was original to see if that info should be used in the rebuild decision. You can find the info, but you need to know what markings to look for, what form they will be it and foremost, be willing to look. Otherwise, if the engine is original, definately rebuild it. But you should know if it IS the original engine. And how do you do that? Start reading the thread at the beginning.
Jim

[Soaring]

I couldn't agree more Jim if the OP wants to keep it original, but if he only wants to have a running Mustang with a 289, it really doesn't matter.  However, the advantage of starting with the original engine that is yanked from that Mustang is that you know the history, and that the block is a good starting place with out dealing with cracks, etc.  If it was mine, I would yank that engine that is in the car and rebuild it. 

[RagTop]

I would perfer to rebuild the engine that is in the car if possible, just my opinion  .  The Mustang didn't come with matching #, only a date code on the block.  The motor in the car now may not be the original motor but a period correct depending on the production date of the car and the production date of the motor  .

[Soaring]

That's right.  There is no way to confirm if that engine is the original engine because numbers matching didn't start until 1967 or so.  However, you can get a good idea that it may possibly be the original engine if the date code is prior to the build date of the car.  Like I said, I would yank that engine and rebuild it. 

[66GTKFB]

This is picture of my 'K' engine, the only code engines from 64 to 66 in Mustangs that had a VIN stamped on the block. However, all other small blocks had an assembly date stamped into the block as shown. It is best viewed from the left front and is located on the piece of engine casting that one of the long water pump bolts goes into. Note the distributor at the top and fuel pump at the bottom for location. (The overspray on the oil pressure extention has been removed.)
Jim

[Don A]

Step 1--Count the bell housing to engine bolts--If 5 only a 64 289 or earlier 260will fit--If 6 any carburated 289 or 302 will bolt in if complete--If not complete will need quite a bit of work changing accesories--

PS--If generator equipped the engine is a 64 1/2

[Soaring]

Step 1--Count the bell housing to engine bolts--If 5 only a 64 289 or earlier 260will fit--If 6 any carburated 289 or 302 will bolt in if complete--If not complete will need quite a bit of work changing accesories--

PS--If generator equipped the engine is a 64 1/2

Don, according to the VIN he gave us, he has a 1965 C code 289 in it.  The 64 1/2 289's were coded "D"

[don wilpula]

Rebuild-rebuild -(rebuild= to make like new with all new conponents) It's a fun winter project and you'll be proud of your accomplishment. Total cost will be close to a performance short bolck...considering you do the final assembly work to save on labor charges? Find a good machine shop to do the block&heads.
The last 289 I completed from oil pan to air cleaner was close to $1800.