Author Topic: Oil question  (Read 4084 times)

Tim175

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Oil question
« on: March 13, 2010, 03:41:15 PM »
I have a crate 460 in my truck and i do a decent amount of heavy hauling with it, the motor has around 5k miles on it, which oil should i use? I haven't changed the oil yet since ive had it and im planning on doing it so i want to get the right oil, thanks.

Soaring

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2010, 05:29:02 PM »
Go synthetic as soon as you can.  There's Royal Purple which is expensive, and oil tests have shown it to be not much better than Mobil 1.  I use Mobil 1 in all three of my Fords.  And, either get a Wix or a Motorcraft filter.  Mobil 1 costs a little more than dino oil, but you can drive a couple thousand miles further between oil changes.  I change my oil at around 6 thousand miles, and the oil is still almost golden in color.  My 2 cents.

66GTKFB

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #2 on: March 13, 2010, 06:29:29 PM »
Most new engines use a lighter grade of oil, 5-20W or 10-20W instead of 30-50W, so you might have to back track to the engine's supplier to verify the grade required. If it's a crate, a Ford dealer may be able to help you there. If it's a rebuilt (not new), go with 30. As to synthetic - save your money for wine and change your oil every 3000 miles. Brand is another "touchy" subject.
Jim

Tim175

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2010, 06:39:21 PM »
Thanks for the reply's guys. I know for sure its a crate motor but i don't know what it is or where he got it, when i bought the truck the guy had just put the motor in it. I was thinking about going like 5-30w but someone told me 20-50 so i don't know.

Jeff73Mach1

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2010, 06:41:53 PM »
I'll suggest a different route since your truck is a 74 and I assume it does not have catalytic converters.  Rottella 15-40 diesel oil works great.  I have run it in several vehicle up to 185,000 miles (got totaled at that point) without any oil usage or loss in performance.

Zinc additives are also great in old style motors but are hell on converters.

Tim175

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #5 on: March 13, 2010, 06:42:57 PM »
Ironically enough that is what the guy put in it when i bought it. Should i just keep going with that?

Soaring

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2010, 01:09:56 AM »
No.  Go with synthetic as soon as you can.  Jim and the others are nuts.   ;D   Seriously, synthetic oil has been proven to be the best oil you can put in any engine, to include crate and overhauled engines, 

holdover

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2010, 11:59:59 AM »
Standard oil is OK and will work, BUT synthetic  oil is so much better under load conditions and does not break down under moderate heat conditions. If you take a engine apart that has used synthetic oil it is much cleaner and shows less wear. My racing engines are taken apart and checked often and they hold up much better than when used with standard oil. Almost all the face teams now use syn.For a few dollars more go with the best protection you can buy.. BTW I watch for sales at the local walmart and sometimes can get Mobil 1 for about 3.50-4.00 QT

Soaring

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #8 on: March 15, 2010, 01:46:21 PM »
I totally agree.  Synthetic is the ticket. 

jethat

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2010, 02:12:04 PM »
I'd use motorcraft semi synthetic and a motorcraft filter. I'd use 10w-30 unless I lived in an extreme environment like phoenix then i'd use 10w-40. I'm not an oil expert but I've read from guys who are and they have said the benefits from using full synthetics aren't what they used to be oil formulations have improved dramatically.. You can buy the motorcraft oil at walmart and for the price its a steal. I change my oil in my trucks 3 times a year and it cost about $15 each time.

Soaring

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2010, 03:03:47 PM »
My 03 Mach 1 uses 6 quarts in the pan, and one quart in the filter.  Mobil 1 costs somewhere between 6 and 7 bux a quart, and with the filter change, I spend close to 60 bucks just to change the Mach.  But, I only have to do that twice a year mainly because I drive it less than 10K a year, and you can run Mobil 1 for 5-6K miles before changing it.  I have 39K on the Mach, and the oil is just about as golden when I drain it as when I put it in.   I change it because of moisture content, especially during the winter.  There is nothing wrong with dino oil, it's just that synthetic is far superior.  Go to the FAQ section in the classic section on here and find the oil test report. 

66GTKFB

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2010, 06:16:47 PM »
I've used Quaker State or Pennzoil in all my cars since 1963. I change oil and filter at 3,000 miles or less and document every change. I buy oil by the case at less than a buck a quart. I am down to my last two Motocraft oil filters (about $2.50 ea) so I got to think about some more. Currently I have five cars (down from seven) so at six bucks a quart for Mobil I - you gotta be nuts.
Jim
PS: I never had a problem with engine wear, even in my off road race cars.
SAVE YOUR MONEY FOR WINE.

Soaring

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #12 on: March 17, 2010, 08:42:31 PM »
I guess we will always disagree on the advantages of synthetic oil over dino, Jim.  The overwhelming evidence is that Synthetic is far superior as tests have proven.  Sure, the dino will keep your engine safe from freezing up, but the wear and tear will continue to be more than with using synthetic.  Those are facts you can't ignore.  Whenever it comes to my Mustangs, I don't consider the cheapest route, but the most efficient/protection route. 

BlackShadow

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #13 on: March 18, 2010, 02:04:27 AM »
I run mobil 1300 delvac  oil 15-40 in 5 trucks, 3 pickups, 5 tractors, 2 combines plus all my cars and I do have a few.  Buy it  in 55 gallons barrels and have had great engine life with it but I do change it religiously.   I think they call mobil 1300 delvac   the million  mile oil  I know alot of trucker use it.  I don't use synthetic oil in any of my rigs and have no reason too.

Tim175

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #14 on: March 18, 2010, 01:28:01 PM »
The only thing i have against synthetic is that most of the people i have talked to say that they have a lot more blow by and or oil burning than with conventional, and i have several buddies who have made stroker motors or just rebuilt motors and used synthetic and have had their rings slip out on more than one engine so i still am hesitant to switch.

Jeff73Mach1

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #15 on: March 18, 2010, 03:37:21 PM »
I would like to add to my initial post.

I like synthetics and in a properly broken in engine, I think they are a clear winner hands down-but when you get into large cubic inch, old style engines with two piece rear main seals, I personally believe that the potential for leakage is a bit greater with synthetics.

Your friends with strokers and ring problems running synthetics might look more to the nature of strokers and the piston design than to blaming synthetic oil.

I do not use synthetic in an engine with unknown or higher mileage if it was being run on conventional oil before, because I am afraid that synthetics might break loose any deposits.

and my opinions are based upon folklore, moon phases, lots of advice from people of questionable qualifications and a little personal experience.  take it for what it's worth or ignore it completely LOL

Soaring

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #16 on: March 18, 2010, 03:57:22 PM »
I started using Mobil 1 in my 65 when it had 130,000 miles on the 289, and I started using Mobil 1 in my truck when it had 93,000 miles on it, and I started using Mobil 1 in my 03 Mach 1 with 5,000 miles on it, so the mileage is not so important as the condition of the rest of the engine when you start using it.   None of my engines leak, nor do they have blowby, etc.  Gaskets tend to harden, and synthetic is slicker than dino, so you MAY get some leakage for awhile, but it will clear up once the old gaskets get soaked and swell back up.  If you are getting blowby, it is not the fault of the synthetic oil, it just means you have a worn out engine......same with the rings problem.   And, you are not going to break off anything by using synthetic.  10W30 is 10W30 whether it be synthetic or dino.  Just because it is synthetic does not make it a thinner oil....just slicker.  You guys really need to do some serious research, and quit listening to shade tree mechanics like me.   ;D

ouch1

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #17 on: April 05, 2010, 07:04:39 PM »
Another thing to remember about synthetic oil is that you do not want to run an additive like STP or Duralube in it. Adding those additives will cause blowby as they will cause the oil to be even slicker and it will be more likely to slip past the rings and valve guides.

I wonder if the build lube will cause the same issue with synthetic oil.

FYI I run synthetic in my '66. Usually i use either Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30, Mobil 1 10W-30, or (if I can find it on sale) Royal Purple 10W-30.

And I have not had a leak in 5 years of running synthetic in my stang. I even switched my wifes '01 F-150 over to synthetic and it runs great.

-ouch1

Soaring

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Re: Oil question
« Reply #18 on: April 05, 2010, 09:11:02 PM »
A good testimomy.  I have Mobil I in my three Mustangs and Fords.  I'm not sure what the argumement is regarding the superiority over dino is involved. Do some research, and you will also go to synthetic oil. 

 

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