Author Topic: New problem (Resolved)  (Read 2976 times)

Jeff73Mach1

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New problem (Resolved)
« on: August 29, 2009, 10:36:59 PM »
Spent a little time today tweaking fender alignment and adjusting the clutch.  Thing looked and sounded good.  Drove well, though I wasn't driving it hard today.  Ordered a new center section set up with 3.50 gears instead of the 4.56's and have my springs, shocks and rear sway bar due here in a few days/  I was really enjoying life.

Then . . . I heard a clunk, some smoke from the engine compartment (just a little) and my best guess is my timing chain jumped time tonight (while idling) and I had to tow her home :(

The odd thing is the entire electrical system went dead, I can start it jumping across the solenoid, but nothing else works.  Backfiring blew a muffler loose.  I tried to turn the distributor to get it running just enough to get it the 2 miles home but no luck.

I assume I'll have to look for a fusible link.  Not sure why they would occur at the same time.

On the plus side I found a 351 C and transmission about 60 miles out of town complete pan to carb and am buying it for $150.00-maybe there will be a few good parts I can use and maybe I can sell off the rest to make a few extra project bucks.  It has sat 2 years and was bought at an auction and allegedly rebuilt prior to that.  If I get a good core set of heads or block out of it I'll be happy.

jethat

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Re: New problem
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2009, 08:25:11 AM »
Sounds odd for sure. I'd probably start with diagnosing the electrical problem. The timing just bring it to #1 TDC and all that and see where its at. I've done the Chain in my 71 when I first got it. Did a  whole bunch of repairs to it like that then in the end I ended up pulling the engine and rebuilding it. You might want to seriously consider doing that in the first place. Probably end up saving you time and money. Sounds like you got a nice core $150 is fair for a cleveland core these days. What year is the core? is it 4v or 2? I'd pull the pan off and see if its a 4 bolt block. If your concerned with keeping you car original you of course will want to favor using the engine it came with and all. Unless the one you got is much better. Cleveland's are thin wall cast blocks so thats a concern when building one especially if you build it high performance. You want to keep the bore as close to stock as possible.

Jeff73Mach1

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Re: New problem
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2009, 10:57:12 AM »
Thanks, I agree that I need to find the electrical problem.

I got the engine and an automatic transmission and figure any heads are worth that as cores on ebay.  It came out of a mustang but I don't know anything else.  I figure a set of cleaned up valve covers is worth 50 bucks so all the parts are easily worth 2 to 3 times what I am paying.  Not sure what heads are on it til I go pick it up, but maybe I'll get lucky.

Electrical could be in the solenoid or possibly the ignition switch or a fusible link.  I'll run it all down this week.

I am expecting/planning a complete rebuild over the winter, but would like to get it back running in the meantime if I can do it with a timing chain as I don't want there to be other problems when I rebuild the engine and drop it back in.

Soaring

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Re: New problem
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2009, 04:09:31 PM »
Timing chain replacement is not really a hard job, it just takes a lot of time because you have to remove the rad, fan, etc. just to get to the timing cover.  I would suggest a static timing before assuming the chain slipped. 

Jeff73Mach1

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Re: New problem
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2009, 08:10:12 PM »
I pulled the fuel pump and stuck my finger in and the chain is very loose.  Even if it didn't jump time, it needs to be replaced.  I think I am going to run a compression check again and see what I get even though the engine will be cold.  The hope is that it is electrical and that the distributor and coil aren't getting full voltage when I cross the solenoid to get it started, but I am fairly certain it jumped time.  I am going to try and trouble shoot the electrical first.

On the plus side, I picked up the engine and transmission.  It is a 1972 dated block and 2v heads that had an original ford intake and motorcraft 2 barrel in reasonable shape. (needs a choke linkage and a rebuild, but still has a build tag attached)

Took the heads off and they look pretty good, I need to take a couple valves out, but ran out of time.

Crank looks good, man bearings are worn, but no sign of damage.  Typical sludge in the pan, but not too bad.  Cylinder walls look like all they may need is a hone or a minimal overbore.  Pistons look usable with a hone, but are dished and I intend to build it with pop ups and a solid cam.

All in all this purchase looks like a winner.

Soaring

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Re: New problem
« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2009, 10:42:15 PM »
Sounds like it is a winner for that price.  I just have a hard time working in this heat in Texas right now.  I am going camping and fishing in the National parks, then try to do some work in the October/November time frame in Texas. 

Jeff73Mach1

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Re: New problem
« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2009, 08:45:06 PM »
Quick update.  I went to work with my multimeter and figured out that my starter relay had blown and fried the fusible link.  I replaced it and rewired the fusible link and the engine started right up and runs just fine.  Apparently my crossing the solenoid to get it to run only allowed a little voltage to the coil, not enough to run properly.

I did unfortunately blow a muffler to pieces when it was happening, but that is a lot easier to deal with than a timing chain.

My interior light is not working now, but I haven't checked the fuses and ran out of light to work on it.

finished tearing down the old motor I bought and I am 99% sure the block will just need honing.  The 2V head have had the valves reworked to 4V size and would make nice heads for someone looking for the smaller intake and exhaust runners for better low end torque.  I still need to pull a valve and see if they are  piece valves, but if they are I'll be selling the heads to fund my custom engine project.

Jeff73Mach1

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Re: New problem
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2009, 03:08:00 PM »
The dome light bulb and every single tail light blew when the solenoid shorted out.

All is fixed, now if all the parts I have bought would just come in I could get this car project a little further along.

Tim175

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Re: New problem (Resolved)
« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2009, 04:15:41 PM »
Glad you figured it out

Soaring

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Re: New problem (Resolved)
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2009, 09:01:30 PM »
I had a similar problem with my Ranger F-150 truck today.  I was happily going down the highway and the oil pressure gauge and heat gauge didn't read right.  They read low.  Anyway, I stopped for gas and the damn thing wouldn't start.  It was obviously a fried battery, so I got a new one at NAPA, and went another 100 miles and it did it again.  Well, the dingaling I am, I figured it was a fried Voltage Regulator, so installed a new one and VOILA, she is good to go again.   ;D

Jeff73Mach1

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Re: New problem (Resolved)
« Reply #10 on: September 03, 2009, 09:34:18 PM »
That makes me wonder . . . should I test my voltage regulator and if so could some one point me to the test procedure, or should I plan to replace it?

Soaring

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Re: New problem (Resolved)
« Reply #11 on: September 03, 2009, 10:32:39 PM »
The rule of the thumb is that anytime you change out the alternator, you also replace the VR.  I haven't replaced my alternator, so thought I was good to go, but apparently not.  They are cheap insurance, so if you are planning to be on a long trip and lonely roads, you might want to go ahead and replace it.  It might save a tow fee.   

Tim175

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Re: New problem (Resolved)
« Reply #12 on: September 03, 2009, 10:56:26 PM »
Mine was working alright but i went ahead and replaced it. (One less thing to worry about on the car.) You might want to just to know you've got a new one, but it's up to you.

Soaring

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Re: New problem (Resolved)
« Reply #13 on: September 04, 2009, 03:56:06 PM »
The new VR for mine only cost 11 bux plus change, so replacing it if you don't know how old it is might be a wise thing to do.  It took me a whole 5 minutes to do it.  Then, I got to thinking that I didn't know how old my alternator was and it looked kinda crusty, so I took it off and took it to Autozone and had it tested.  It didn't test at 40 amps, so I bought a reconditioned one and put her in the old beast this morning, and she is charging like everything now.  So, for 50 something bux I have a new charging system. 

Jeff73Mach1

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Re: New problem (Resolved)
« Reply #14 on: September 23, 2009, 01:43:27 PM »
I am not a fan of autozone alternators and starters!  If they are the only choice I would insist on having it tested in front of me before I took it.

I learned that the hard way years ago and after taking the first replacement back, they went through 3 remanufactured ones before they found one up to spec.  I'll gladly pay Napa's prices for these parts.


 

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