Author Topic: Heating Problems  (Read 7235 times)

champion2211

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Heating Problems
« on: June 27, 2009, 09:38:04 PM »
I have a 289 with a Edelbrock intake and carb. 4bbl. When going down the road and kick down  the throttle and open the 4bbl the radiator pushes fluid out and all over the engine. I have changed to a new 16 lb. cap. I have a 3 row radiator alluminum. Everything seems to run normally except when it is kicked down. In traffic it does get alittle warmer than I like. It will also fill the overflow tank from the radiator. The engine was completely rebuilt and the timing is right on 6 deg. and all parts are new with a stock water pump. I do have a tranny cooler mounted on the front of the radiator.  Does anyone possibly have an answer. It does have duals with cherry bomb mufflers and stock headers.

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2009, 01:13:31 AM »
These old 289's tend to heat up, even with some upgrades.  I would make sure you have a 6 blade fan or even an electric fan and a shroud to add to the 3 row aluminum  rad and the overflow tank.  The shroud is especially important.  Also put in a bottle of Water Wetter.  You can get it at most parts stores.  Here, read about it.  http://www.importtuner.com/reviews/impp_0808_coolant_additives/water_wetter_results.html

champion2211

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #2 on: June 28, 2009, 10:00:13 PM »
I have the fan shroud on with a 16" Flex fan with 6 blades. It stays cool while driving but when you get into traffic of the stop and go variety it starts to get hotter. It cools down once you start driving. This engine should be getting a little warmer than stock as it is bored .060.  I thought about getting an AOD tranny and take the C4 out. It has been redone and works perfect. I just don"t like the rpms at 70 mph being 3100.

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2009, 02:05:26 AM »
That sounds a little high.  My F-150 has a 351-W in it with a C-6 and it runs around 2K RPM at 70 MPH.  I don't know what my 3 speed manual in my 65 runs, but I don't think it is anywhere near 3K at 70 MPH.  Can you hear that C4 shift into 3rd?  What gears do you have out back? 

champion2211

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2009, 04:39:04 PM »
It does go into third gear. The rear end has a 3.00 and I have been thinking about getting a 2.23 or something low. I got the water wetter but need to drain and get the anti freeze first.

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2009, 05:21:46 PM »
Flush that sucker really good, but don't use that acid crap.  Just plain water, and turn on your heater while you are flushing so you get the goo out of the heater box as well.  Cut the hose going to the heater box and put in a plastic "T" with a hose hook-up to do the flushing.  You can get those at any parts place.   Take off the cap and open the petcock and let her drain.  You might need to catch the first part of the drain because it has the old anti-freeze in it.  That depends on the laws of your community.  I drain mine at the farm on the ground.  I use a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and anti-freeze, but the jury is still out on that.  Some guys use like a 20/80 mix thinking that water cools better than anti-freeze.  Maybe so.  Just be sure you use distilled water so you don't get a build-up of crystals on the walls of the engine block. 

champion2211

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2009, 10:38:48 AM »
It has a new heater core so i doubt if there is any  build up in there. I bought one of those things you attach to your faucet that is supposed to clean out all the bad stuff and I fill it with that. Great to drink before hand also.  I have run that in it twice now and are filling it with 50/ 50 and the water wetter this time. I will let you know. Even with just the water in her it does take awhile for it to get hot or warm. When I get into traffic it starts to get hot. Not much on the gauge but after i stop it fill the over flow bucket but with the 16 lb cap it will not go back.  I had a 13 on it and when I step into it the radiator throws water all over the engine compartment.  Could it possibly be the stock size exhaust? Maybe I should go larger with flowmasters? Tom

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2009, 09:24:24 PM »
I forgot to tell you that after you get it filled back up with a 50-50 mix, leave the cap off for awhile when the engine is running and reaches 180 degrees and the thermostat opens. (You are using a 180 degree thermostat aren't you?)  What you are doing is burping the system.  Air bubbles get in the system when you flush it, and you need to get those air bubbles out.  You will see them come to the top of the radiator and pop.  That's a good sign.  Whenever the bubble stop, then you have successfully burped it. 
As far as your lbs on the cap, I use a 13 and I don't have a problem because of the cap.  If that 13 is popping and a bunch of steaming water is going into your overflow tank, then you have more problems than the pressure lbs of the cap will cure. 
OK, it has a new heater core.  But, have you run your heater after installing it?  If so, then you have gunky water inside the core that needs to come out. 

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2009, 12:54:14 AM »
some head gasket leaks can really pressurize cooling systems. I imagine running it harder would do that more.. i know you said the engine was recently rebuilt but maybe that is something to think about.

champion2211

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #9 on: July 01, 2009, 06:10:58 AM »
When I do a rebuild, it gets all new parts on all ends. I had the machine shop bake the engine as they no longer acid bath a block. I have burped the engine before but I was told by a race mechanic to use a 160 deg. thermostat so to keep it cooler. It does that but it is bad when in the stop and go traffic. Due to the 100+ weather here in San Antonio my truck is doing fine but the Falcon isn't so lucky.  It did help when I took the AC off the engine. Less for the air to travel through.  The only thing I can think of is a blockage but the water circulates good once the thermo opens.  Anymore ideas on the problem of blowing water out the cap? Only when I goose it. It does have a 16 lb cap. Maybe I need to start a new thread for the pressure problem. Thanks

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #10 on: July 01, 2009, 03:07:59 PM »
I'm sorry man, I have run out of ideas.  I guess the only thing I can still think of is have you considered an electric fan?  That will take the pull of the engine off of the manual fan and free up a bit of friction.  Electric fans also pull more air as a general rule, and especially in stop and go traffic.   Also, flex fans flatten out at higher speeds so are not pulling any air through the rad.  That generally isn't necessary at normal temps, but the 104 temps we have been experiencing in Central Texas lately negates that saving gas theory.  You need the fan working at all times. 
 I know you said you had the timing set at 6 degrees BTDC, but double check it.  Too far advanced will cause overheating.  You also should not be running 3100 RPM's at 70 MPH.  And, the .060 bore will run hotter than normal.  Suggestion........since you just recently had it overhauled, take it back to the machine shop that did the overhaul and tell them your problems with the engine they built.  You most likely have a decent guarantee that hasn't expired.  I'm just brainstorming here, so take what I suggest with a grain of salt. 
I don't live too far from you, so give me a shout and maybe you can drive to Wimberley and we can take a look at it.  I'm not sure there is anything I  can do, but I sure would like to see your car.   ;D
Glen Wren
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champion2211

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #11 on: July 02, 2009, 10:47:35 AM »
Glen: I rebuilt the engine myself. After i got it back from the machine shop he told me that it should stay cool with the proper radiator, hoses, etc. He had quite a few already out there that were bored at .060 with no problems.  Thats why I let him do the bore job. I am not sure that I have enough room up front with the tranny cooler also but i will measure it.  I haven't ventured out that far until I get this heating problem fixed. Someday maybe. Thanks again for your help. Tom 2106694776

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2009, 10:14:04 PM »
I was just thinking that my radiator hoses might be collapsing at high rpm's and the water pump is still working harder to push the water with no where to go except out the cap. What do you all think?

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #13 on: July 02, 2009, 10:40:51 PM »
That's one thing I forgot to mention.  Does the bottom hose have the coiled up spring in it, and if so, is it rusted out?  That could very well be your problem if you stomp it and the  tranny kicks down to 2nd for passing.   If that is not it, then I really do believe you should consider an electric fan.  When it turns on, it sucks tons of air through the fins of your rad at idle, whereas the fan blades of the mechanical one barely turns at idle while waiting in traffic.  What you want is a pull electric fan, not a push one.  You take your mechanical fan off, and it mounts on the radiator inside the shroud.  Here are some more things I want you to read. 
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_rules_for_improving_engine_cooling_system_capability_in_high-performance_automobiles.htm

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #14 on: July 04, 2009, 02:37:38 PM »
Very good article. I do not have a wire inside the bottom hose. It is a factory formed hose but i have an extra hose with a wire spring in it. I have one of the wire on the outside hoses for the top that I will change. I haven't had time to work on it yet but all the good info will help. Thanks Tom

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #15 on: July 05, 2009, 08:54:14 PM »
It is IMPERATIVE you have the coiled up wire spring in the lower hose to keep the hose from collapsing at WOT.  Need I say more.   ;D

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #16 on: July 05, 2009, 10:28:42 PM »
Will Do.

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #17 on: July 07, 2009, 09:51:43 PM »
I was having heating problems also (running a little too warm for me), but not to the extent you are, so I had the thermostat removed and a FlowKooler water pump installed and no more heating problems. It does not go over the half mark now and I will not need the heater working any time soon in South East New Mexico.

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #18 on: July 08, 2009, 04:27:53 PM »
Removing the thermostat now is a no-no. If nothing else drill two small holes in it and go to a 160 or 180 thermostat. It does help the engine warm to operating temp and it will run good with it that way. My water pump is pushing the water good and it goes through the engine right and with a  flex fan or the stock 6 blade fan the rpms at idle isn't enough to keep it cool. I am going to put an elect fan in its place. Here is South Texas it is hotter than in New Mexico. Thanks for the reply. Tom

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Re: Heating Problems
« Reply #19 on: July 08, 2009, 04:43:21 PM »
Going with the electric is a good idea, but just remember that the electric will draw a lot of amps from your alternator, so just keep it in the back of your head that you may have to go with a beefed up alternator soon after you replace the flex fan with the electric.  And, you are right.  It is a really dumb idea to take out the thermostat.  You need that engine running around 180-200 F as soon as it can get there after startup.  Drilling a small hole in the thermostat has been used a lot by a lot of wrench turners, but I have never done that. 

 

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