Topic: Handling!

[SnaKe]

I've started to take my ol 65 stang on the local track for "all american muscle days" it's super fun.
Problem is my old girl doesn't like high speed and gets a bit of a wobble around 90mph and under heavy brake. I've upgraded all the sway bars, lowered it slightly and got all new struts, springs, leafs.
I think it just needs a few more tweaks

But now I think it's time to do some upgrades, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with
1, Disc brake kits.
2, Traction bars / subframe connectors.

I'm looking at ordering the gear from mustangsplus, they have been really helpful in shipping stuff to Australia for me.

I'm looking at these brakes:
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1965-69-Forged-Dynalite-Pro-11-Cross-Drilled-Rotor-Disc-Brake-Kit.html

for the front, then these on rear (later on)
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1965-73-Wilwood-Rear-Disc-Conversion-Black-Caliper-w-Parking-Brake-2.36-Offset-Large-Bearing.html

First thing I'm ordering is the traction bars, I'm not sure on the best way to go?
A simple upgrade like these:
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1965-66-Grab-A-Trak-Under-Rider-Traction-Bars.html

Or something beefy like this:
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1964-70-TCP-Subframe-Connector-Package-Kit.html

Any advice would be great.

At the moment I'm looking at just getting front discs and the cheap subframe connectors for a test, then get rear discs later on. Also I will be boosting the brakes.
Also going to get larger wheels, at the moment I have 14", thinking atleast 15" for disc brake clearance and less side wall is a plus.

[66GTKFB]

Take your car to an alignment speciality shop. If you have those shakes at speed and braking, I suspect that you need an alignment. Now for the bad news - I would also suspect that each and every item in the front end that either has rubber or moves is worn to the point that the front end shop will tell you to go away and rebuild it completely (they don't want the liability). Don't feel bad, the car is over 45 years old. I'm doing one right now (just waiting for some items to come back from the platers) and have two more waiting.
Jim

[SnaKe]

Actually that's all been done

I've upgraded the sway bars, replaced all the bushes, rubber etc.. The car drives and handles like a dream.
It was 100% improvement on stock setup.

I'm talking race track, ie 100mph straights etc. The car gets a little bit of a "float" feeling, it's the old mono chassis thing, I just wanna stiffen it up for some track fun, I also plan on adding some power, so brakes and sub frame work is what I'm looking at.
I understand its a 45 year old car and won't handle like a late model car, I'm just looking to improve some more.

I just want to hear from people who've done this, advice on brakes and handling.

[Soaring]

Do you have sub-frame connectors?   Do you have an export brace and a Monte Carlo bar? Most of the disk brake upgrades are about the same.  I recommend you check with Dennis before you leap.  Some of the big commercial companies will rip you off.  Here are some sites you need to visit.
http://www.discbrakeswap.com/
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/download/instructions/7903-rckmp-00.pdf

[SnaKe]

Thanks for the links Soaring

Yes, I have a Monte Carlo and an export brace. I don't have sub-frame connectors, I will be getting those for sure.. any suggestions about which ones to use?

Do traction bars have anything to offer to improve handling? or are they just mainly to stop wheel-spin under acceleration?

Sorry this is the link I was men't to post at the start, not the traction bar link.. I was looking at different things.
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1965-73-Grab-A-Trak-Coupe-and-Fastback-Subframe-Connectors.html

They are the cheap ones that look pretty good, I was wondering if it's worth spending the extra to get the real beefy sub-frame connector that has a drive-shaft loop as well.

Basically... looking for someone who has used one of these products or recommends which one to get, I don't want to get it shipped all the way to Australia, install it and then it be no good

[Joe AZ 2 PA]

Your heading in the right direction with the upgrades you've done. The traction bars I have on my 66 are for the rear wheel/axle twist more than a road course. Check out the Traction Master underride traction bars that Shelby changed over to in 66. Sub-frame connectors are good along with Koni ahocks. I noticed you're using a two piece export brace. The one piece unit may help. Also consider lowering your A-arms like the Shelbys of those days. This will decrease the body roll.  For the front end alignment Shelby's also had +2 deg. caster, 0 deg. camber, and 1/8" toe-in. Use 1/2 - 1 deg negative camber if you're going to run the car hard. Chech out www.cobranda.com for a good selection of Shelby/Mustang parts.. . . . . 

[Soaring]

Yeah, like Joe said........you don't have an export brace. 

[Jeff73Mach1]

wheels and tires are a big issue if the front suspension is completely rebuilt.  15's (depending on the wheels) won't always clear rear disc brake kits.  Unfortunately speed rated tires are getting harder and harder to find in 15" sizes  17's will fit and are made with the proper backspacing.

If the front end is floating I would also look at the springs.  If the rear springs are good and stiff and the fronts are softish, she'll float.

I know you have probably changed shocks, but front shocks are a big factor in front end float-more than sway bars.  What are you running and how old are they?

[Soaring]

Unless you add a nose (AIR FOIL) the air will get under the front and lift the front no matter what suspension you have.  Especially at 100 mph.  Consider adding one. 

[Ralph]

Hi Snake ! l noticed you were at Lakeside, top days arent they, dont know if your aware of this site  www. mustangtech . com .au  good bunch of people, relaxed feeling on the site and always someone willing to help out !!

                             cheers Ralph     Sunshine Coast QLD