Topic: distributor/timing problem? help

[65musti]

hello guys

my problem is really frustrating, i ve been trying to sort it out for last month.
it is 289 C code 1965
it starded from unequal engine running, i replaced all old worn out parts like spark plugs, wires, coil, dist. cap, finger etc. it didnt help. checked gap if it was set to 0,38mm( 0,017 inch ?) anyway like the book says, i checked the carb if all the settings were right and they were.

so we checked timing and it was completly out of scale, that we were unable to set it by rotating the distributor(i dont know how this is possible), so we had to take the distributor out and set it on 1 with both valves closed and the cylinder no 1 at the top point, the way it should be.
all adjustments done on warm engine
then we set it to 8 degrees using timing light, and it runs perfect, drags well.

but the next day, I put it to D and when i rapidly press gas pedal there is like a gap, like a ping or something, sometimes it would turn off the engine, but when i press the gas pedal very gently it goes fairly smooth, although i can feel a lack of power.

then I check the timing again and it shows 14 degrees, so we adjust it again and again but it keeps changing timing somehow.

i checked mechanical advance diaphragm and it is ok. today i took apart the distributor to check the springs inside, they are different from each other, one of them is loose a bit, i have a video of that i can post it later if you may need it.  i compared the springs with the ones my friend has in similar distributor for mustang 66 and they are very similar.

i dont know what else it could be, the season has started and i would love to enjoy my ride, can someone help with this issue please???
greetings

[Topless_Horse]

When you reset the distributor to TDC was the timing pointer also indicating TDC?  Are the gears on your distributor and cam intact (not missing teeth or worn)?  Is there a lot of up/down play in the distributor shaft?  Is the distributor is fully seated and clamped down in its hole? If all of these are OK then I suspect your timing chain has gotten loose or has jumped teeth.

[65musti]

When you reset the distributor to TDC was the timing pointer also indicating TDC?

yes

Are the gears on your distributor and cam intact (not missing teeth or worn)?

they are in good condition

  Is there a lot of up/down play in the distributor shaft?

there is some, but when i check it on the dist. cap it looks ok

  Is the distributor is fully seated and clamped down in its hole?

yes

If all of these are OK then I suspect your timing chain has gotten loose or has jumped teeth.

can you tell me if there is a way of checking that without taking apart half of the engine? or if there is a way of tensing the chain?

[Topless_Horse]

Wow, this is an interesting mystery!

If, when you set the the engine valvetrain to TDC (both valves closed), the timing pointer was pointing to TDC before you reinstalled the distributor, that suggests that your timing chain is OK and that the problem is something to do with the distributor.  To check the timing chain you'd need to pull the water pump and front cover (and the front two bolts holding the oil pan to the block). 

Do you have one of those chrome distributor hold down clamps by any chance?  If you do it could be the cause.  I had one and it bent and allowed the distributor to move even though the bolt that held it down was tight.  It could be that this has bent or partly broken and is allowing your distributor to move around in the hole.  Other than that, the only thing I can think of is the mechanical advance.  You did mention that one of the springs is loose.  Is everything in there firmly attached so it cannot wander around where it's not supposed to be?

Is there any chance your friend with the similar distributor would loan you his for a short time to see whether that fixes the issue?

Hope this helps!

[Jeff73Mach1]

On some engines you can remove the fuel pump and can see and feel the timing chain through the opening, but if it has excessive slack, the front cover, water pump and all accessories, pulleys, distributor, fan, shroud, radiator hoses  and harmonic balancer must come off on a windsor engine.  If you are organized and work steadily it takes about 3 hours the second time you do one.

If it is your first time save a whole day for the project.

[65musti]

ok guys, the problem is sorted.

it was the clamp that was not holding the distributor properly, it was the original one, anyway i fixed it and it is ok.
additionally the pings were caused by dirty/clogged air cleaner, on standard autolite 2100 carb which does not suck the air very well.

thanks for help

[Topless_Horse]

I love it when the good guys win.  Well done!