Topic: Alternator swop

[chilton]

I want to fit an uprated alternator to my '66. The original one has an external regulator and I need to know how I change the wiring to accept a one-wire 100amp unit.

[Topless_Horse]

When I did the swap to a single wire GM alternator I removed the connector on the factory stock regulator and covered it so it could not short.  My factory alternator harness had a molded connector that attached to the back of the alternator so I used it and attached only the lug that goes to the battery side of the solenoid (I think it's a black/yellow wire) to the alternator output.  The other connections were not hooked up to anything but I did put some black RTV over them so they would not short.

This setup allows you the convenience of a single wire alternator while maintaining the function of the factory ammeter (such as it is).

The only difference I see with your setup is that your alternator is a pretty high output unit.  Since the factory wire from the alternator to the solenoid/battery is 12 gauge (good for about 30 amps), you might consider replacing it with the appropriate size wire to handle the higher current (wire size-current carrying charts are available on the web).

[Soaring]

Yeah, the single wire alternator doesn't need an external regulator, it has a built in internal regulator.  Simply run a charge wire from the battery terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery.  (solenoid) The one-wire regulator is a self-exciting regulator, meaning that it has sensing ciruitry for alternator rotation. As the alternator starts to spin, this circuitry connects the internal voltage regulator to the battery and turns the alternator on. When the alternator comes to a complete stop, this same circuitry turns the alternator off. 
You can either use some cable ties to get those extra wires out of the way, or remove them and the exterior regulator altogether.