Topic: 289 popping

[jethat]

if there iron they are these http://www.worldcastings.com/prods_pages/heads/windsor.htm
Cleveland heads are canted (valves are at an angle instead of stright like windsors and small block chevys)
Better flow smaller combustion chamber..

[Soaring]

if there iron they are these http://www.worldcastings.com/prods_pages/heads/windsor.htm
Cleveland heads are canted (valves are at an angle instead of stright like windsors and small block chevys)
Better flow smaller combustion chamber..

You are right.  They come in either 64cc or 72cc.  And, yes, they are aluminum.  Those 64's should be a pretty hot set of heads.  But, I would get hold of either World or Jegs to determine just exactly what I had in order to get the plugs made for that head.  I think we are narrowing it down now. 

[srvblues]

thanks for the good info I will be calling world heads today  and let everyone know  Thanks I'll be in touch  Jeff

[Soaring]

And, your origianl post was from "Jeff in Indiana."   

[srvblues]

I did find out that autolite26 and champion are the best for these heads 

[jethat]

I'd get the autolties...

[srvblues]

Im picking up the autolites in the morning     Gap about 38 I was told?

[jethat]

.38 seems a bit large to me for a stock system. Me I'd go .35. If your ignition system is pretty much stock (less the pertronix) I'm sure .35 will work and last the best. The deal is the gap grows over time the diode burns away. Low voltage systems need regaped a bit over .40 so the smaller gap will mean more time before the next plug change or regap. .38 will probably run just fine though. What ever your comfortable with. Maybe you should check the gap of the plugs your taking out..

[Soaring]

That miniscule gap difference is not all that crucial.  I would gap them at 35, drive it for a few years, then replace them and gap the new ones right out of the box.  The gap of the plugs is not so critical as the diode make-up. 

[srvblues]

Im going to shift gears here a bit  no pun intended!   If some one told you that your trans was leaking form every port possible and you needed to put seal kit in  what would you do?  get a seal kit and put one in or have a shop do it?   the trans is out!

[srvblues]

Sorry the trans is a C4

[jethat]

What trans? C4's are cheap to have rebuilt. Might as well do the whole thing. You will sooner or later anyway. Total rebuild cam be has for around $700... less maybe.

[srvblues]

well I went under the car today and checked out the trans leak and found that its coming from the dipstick  the oring is a bit hard, now is the tube suppose to be all the way down to the metal lip?  I have to get a new oring

[Soaring]

Depends on the deepness of your pockets and your desire to get grease under your fingernails. 

[srvblues]

Well this is what I found out on Saturday, the leak has it sits was dripping in the area of the dipstick, I tightened the pan bolts and the other things while I was down there, I saw the drip coming from the dipstick, and also noticed that it was not all the way pushed down. the metal lip needed to be all the way down to the trans casing, I also replaced the o-ring, I refilled it and I have no leaks.  Lets hope thats it.

[Soaring]

Good Job!

[srvblues]

THANKS!  Soaring, to create an album can you add more then just one photo?

[Thierry]

You can't create an album but you can upload as many photos as you want in the albums already available. I saw you already added a photo in the 67/68 Mustang album so once you are in the album of your choice click on the "Add an item to this album" link like you did and as many time as you wish.
All your photos will then be displayed in a specific page and here is your link:
http://www.mustangv8.com/forum/profile/srvblues/?sa=mgalitems

If you more questions about the gallery, feel free to ask in the site support section.

[Soaring]

I didn't know the answer, so I got the boss in here.