Topic: 289 popping

[srvblues]

Hello I have a 289 67 mustang coupe  I have installed a 570 electric choke holley, headers, eldebrock manifold, pertronix ing, when I try and start it it fires up for a short time but it pops and pops, is it timing or carb issues?  any thoughts?   Thanks Jeff in Indiana   

[Soaring]

Hello I have a 289 67 mustang coupe  I have installed a 570 electric choke holley, headers, eldebrock manifold, pertronix ing, when I try and start it it fires up for a short time but it pops and pops, is it timing or carb issues?  any thoughts?   Thanks Jeff in Indiana   

It could be one or the other or both Jeff.  Just make sure that carburetor's float is adjusted to about 4 on the stick (4 inches max height) , and that the timing is somewhere around 8 degrees BTDC. 
Another check is make sure you are getting an adequate supply of fuel to the carb.  Check the fuel filter, etc.  I guess you know how to make sure you are getting enough fuel.  If not, get back. 

[srvblues]

Soaring, thanks for the advice, I believe the carb came set up out of the box  ( sure it did)  has for fuel I do have a gauge on the fuel line, which I will send to the readings tomorrow, as for timing the car does have a cam not sure of size but it there, My plans are to find tdc and go from there, the wires are good racing wires and the plugs are fine I lied,  Im guessing  I did check them when I installed the headers and they looked good and clean. If you could can you run over how to check tdc and where I put the dist rotor?  Thanks Jeff

[Soaring]

Here is a challenge for you.  In the FAQ section just above your head, I have a ton of information listed that will be helpful to you.  Go to the appropriate section to look up how to tune your Mustang. 

[jethat]

Sound like ignition to me.
something wrong with the firing order the timing or the way you have the pertronix set up. I'd recheck EVERYTHING in the ignition.

[srvblues]

I fixed it !!!!!! I had a tow truck come get it, and take it to a mechanic!!!!!     thanks for all the advice,  Jeff

[Soaring]

Sometimes we reach that frustration level, and give up.  I don't know how many times I have been frustrated, then just walk away from it for a few days, then everything just falls into place.  If you really don't know what you are doing, sometimes it's best just to have a mechanic take care of it.  Otherwise you wind up throwing money at parts you don't need. 

[srvblues]

Yeah I got tired of pushing it back and forth in the garage, not being a mechanic I thought the pros should handle this I'm sure when he gets to it. It wont be a big issue for him.  I took it to a performance shop here in town, they have a few muscle cars hanging around and there very well respected here in town, Thanks for all the advice Im sure I will be back.  She's about ready for paint in about 3 weeks, I'm putting it all back together to check fit and then I will take her a part again, before paint. Thanks again to all for the help  talk to you soon    Jeff in Noblesvile Indiana

[Soaring]

Tell me Jeff....what is a Hoosier?   

[srvblues]

Well being from California, I have no idea! I really don't think the people here know I get conflicting stories   Back to my engine popping! I took it in the shop and I got it back today only to find out it only has a slight popping noise to me after 200.00 buck I would have thought that it would have come back pretty close to perfect, I was told that I needed to change my plugs to a better brand and use good plugs, heres another thought should I get rid of my pertronix and get a better dizzy?  Thanks Jeff  by the way now the trans has major leaks  go figure

[Soaring]

Well being from California, I have no idea! I really don't think the people here know I get conflicting stories   Back to my engine popping! I took it in the shop and I got it back today only to find out it only has a slight popping noise to me after 200.00 buck I would have thought that it would have come back pretty close to perfect, I was told that I needed to change my plugs to a better brand and use good plugs, heres another thought should I get rid of my pertronix and get a better dizzy?  Thanks Jeff  by the way now the trans has major leaks  go figure

I am sorry, I Thought I was responding to another poster from Illinois.  I am so sorry,. 

[srvblues]

?

[jethat]

What kind of plugs do you have? Those old engines are pretty plug friendly. Champions are always junk though (IMO). Have you went through the pertronics set up? I've never used one but I've heard good things about them. I prefer true electronic ignitions. The pertronix is still low voltage just replaces the points. Start with the plugs make sure you have decent ones like Motorcraft Autolite demso NGK. I myself am useing autolites in my mach I. Even AC's are good. I wont put a Champion in the lawnmower. then go fdrom there. Make sure they are gaped correctly (I THINk its .35 but you better check) Could be valve train issue. Weak or broken spring.
See whats going on with the plugs and go from there.

[srvblues]

Thanks I'm changing them tomorrow 1 more question   a c4 that came from a 302 will that bolt up to a 289 block?

[Soaring]

Same block.   

[srvblues]

When I went to get new plugs that the old ones in my engine were the smaller plugs like the cleveland heads were AC DELCO R44TS.  Well that would tell me that the heads are modified  I think if I remember reading that I will find out and get back to you on that.  So now what  should there be a different gap setting?  Im off to do a little research  any help would be great  Thanks Jeff

[srvblues]

Well I found out that they are world heads?

[jethat]

The only thing as far as the gap goes is if your running a high voltage electronic ignition you would want to go with the bigger gap .45 .50 like that. If a Stockish system with just the pertronix you'l want the smaller gap .32 .35 like that. AC's are in my opinion good plugs. Whats the gap on them like now? any of them look funny? fowled?

[Soaring]

I am running the pertronix on my 65 289 along with the original brand (autolite) plugs that came with the car.  Mine runs like a scared monkey.     Now, with those heads, you might want to contact the World head company and ask their advice on which plugs to use, and which gap you are supposed to put them at.   Or check with Jegs who sells those heads. http://www.jegs.com/p/World+Products/760714/10002/-1 those kinds of aftermarket heads require a whole different tune than the original engines heads.   That could very well be where your problem lies. 

[jethat]

The ignition systems determins the gap. Low voltage=small gap high voltage=larger gap. The high voltage systems are good with a .70 gap the low voltage systems need the smaller gap they start missfiring at .40 thats why plug changes on newercar happen much less frequently. The old cars needed new plugs ever 30k My F150 calls for 100k intravel. I've heard of them heads. Probably "man-o-wars" if there aluminum.  Smaller combustion chamber and better flow plus aluminum makes the quench better leading to less detonation problems. The thing that concerns me about the heads with the problems your describing you may have a valvetrain issue. Weak spring bent push rod broken rocker (and more) could cause the issues you have. When ever you have something like that some one put together there is the opertunity for error..