Topic: 1966 Mustang overheats

[Garret]

I have tried no thermo. 160, 180 & 195.  I have autometer mech. gauge.  I have a infrared.  It will go 230+ if I let it.  Electric fan 2,700 14" cfm in front of A/C condenser always runs & 3,000 16" cfm puller in front of rad. runs constant also.  No overflow can. Rad. cap is the high point.  I am about to try water flow restrictor disc to see if it will work.  I am running no thermo. now, maybe slow it down?  I run a 8 qt. milodon pan.

[Soaring]

You need to be running a 180 thermostat.  Taking it out is just making matters worse because you are not quickly getting the operating temperature up to at least 190 before it starts to open.  Get that overflow tank on there and make sure you have a shroud around the fan.  Just for grins, check your lower hose and see if it has a coiled up wire inside the hose.  If not, that may be one of the  problems.  If you can slow down the waterflow so that the heated water stays in therad a tad longer to cool down,  better, then the restrictor may be an answer.  Also, you said it was a new engine.  If it was an overhauled engine, then I would guess that the walls of the cylinders are too thin which causes overheating.  Just saying.....
All good points Jeff.  I have even heard of guys who stuff aluminum foil around the gaps so that the airflow is directed toward the center of the radiator.  Not a permanent fix, but just to see if that may be the problem. 

[Garret]

New engine from ford racing.  I will try the restrictor and check back.  I thought by buying all new stuff I would not have any problems.  I guess I am just lucky, HA

[Soaring]

Sounds like you need to get with Ford Racing and settle the problem with them. 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Been pondering your problem.  First 230 degrees is not so hot that I would pull over, nor do I think it is causing damage-but I would not want to see it higher.

What does the combustion pattern look like on the spark plugs?

What is your timing setting?

Is your vacuum advanced hooked to ported or unported vacuum?

your engine may be mildly retarded-easy fix and will give the benefit of additional power

when you check the timing get one of the variable timing guns and not only check at idle (a/c off, lights on, vacuum advance unhooked, line plugged) but also bring engine up to 2500 to 3000 rpm and use the dial on the gun to make sure your mechanical advance is coming up to 30-34 degrees.

If the mechanical advance is not advancing enough-(and this is very common in older distributors) then the fuel does not ignite early enough and the exhaust valve is open during part of the combustion process-this causes a lot of heat in the exhaust and the engine compartment- but usually doesn't make the internal engine temperature go up that much.

Excessively advanced and the piston is fighting the early combustion and power goes way down and heat way up-pinging, predetonation and lousy driveability suggest that this is not your problem.




You added a PCV valve-is the opposite valve cover fitted with a breather cap or is it a sealed cap?  (It should be either a breather style or one with a vent hose into the air cleaner.)

[Garret]

Put in the water flow restrictor, I used the one with the 5/8" hole.  It runs much better but temps will still go up with the A/C on, it just takes much longer.  Maybe it is the Northern radiator?  It is the direct fit with two 1" tubes.  What should the timming be set at?   

[66GTKFB]

Assuming the engine is a 289, 6 degrees before top dead center is the recomended advance on the dampner. You need 26 to 31 degrees dwell angle and make sure that you have about 10 degrees vacuum advance at 2000 rpm.
Jim

[Garret]

Jim, It is a Ford Racing 302 crate, with Gt40 heads, .498 lift roller mtr

[Soaring]

Set the timing by ear.  You can tell when it is too advanced, thereby causing overheating.  Again, I would get back with Ford Racing to resolve the issue since it is a new crate engine.