Author Topic: 1966 Distributor, Electrical & Frame questions  (Read 2519 times)

Delmer

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1966 Distributor, Electrical & Frame questions
« on: December 10, 2008, 03:40:02 PM »
I just picked up a mostly restored 1966 car that has a few items left unfinished. Any help is appreciated.

First, there is major frame rust on both sides where the steering arms attach. Is it a big deal to fabricate reinforcement pieces to weld there? Is this problem common enough that someone actually makes reinforcement pieces for it?

Second, my gauges aren't working. Speedo and odo are, dash lights are, and there is power to the gauges (positive to the amp and negative to the fuel, oil and temp I think). There are a couple of flat male leads behind the fuel & oil gauges that, when touched together, cause them to go from E/L to F/H. Should there be a resistor or something there or do I need to look elsewhere?

Third, when starting up the car balks and would like to stall. It idles fine and if you start, let off the gas and then step on it again it will go. When I went to gap the points I found that the metal plate they are attached to could jiggle around a bit, completely throwing the gap off. I was on the road and used the ring from the keychain to clamp it down a little which has helped a lot. The plate obviously needs to pivot, but should there be a bushing on the pivot pin to keep the plate from moving around too much?

Thanks, I'll do what I can to answer a few questions in the future.
Delmer

66GTKFB

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Re: 1966 Distributor, Electrical & Frame questions
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2008, 06:33:43 PM »
Welcome. Frame repair is tricky but doable. But -
First - what engine and transmission did the car come with and waht is in the car now?
Second - go to the FAQ section and look up the wiring diagram for your car. You will see an item called the constant voltage regulator. It provides 5V derived from the 12V car system to the water temp, gas gauge and oil pressure indicators. See if you got one. It's a metal box about an inch and a half log and 1/2 on the sides with two spade terminals sticking up from a usually white insulator on the top and a tab that gets screwed down to the instrument cluster.
Third - replacing the distributor is a good idea. See the first question.
Jim

 

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