Topic: 72 Steal update

[Meric]

     Heya all sorry Ive been away a little while.  I had managed to get that vinyl off and for a moment my hopes of this car being a steal  dwindled. The "brow" of the roof was riddled with holes, 6 inches from the "brow" <or  front above front glass> were several "pock marks" that had me a little down and last but not least was a 2'x4 1/2' rust hole on the drives side rear of the roof. Was getting worried I would have to replace the entire roof.
     Here are some before and afters. Still have a little touch up sanding left and 1 spot that needs a tad bit more filler on the brow.

[Soaring]

Looks like you are doing a good job though. 

[Meric]

Thank you Soaring, I needed that lol.  All the body work on the drivers side is done minus the crumpled section against the taillight, for that Im currently  thinking of a way to use an air impact tool and a block of metal to "beat" the sheetmetal back out.  But other then that the drivers side is completly done when it comes to the bondo and wet sanding.  It took  5 coats but the drivers side is  nick, dent, scratch free and have made the bondo evidence disappear. rmodel65 had left a post where he asked if I welded all the holes and pock marks cause the bondo assorbs water,  this is my first project where I ever used bondo an the answer to his question is no I did not weld any of the holes.  As far as the bondo assorbing water, like I said it has 5 coats of gloss enamal thats been laid down and wet sanded imperfection free.  I would think the 5 coats of high gloss enamal would help to stop the amount of water capable of reaching the bondo, or am I wrong?  I have access to an electric and air sander but everything up to this point has been hand sanded.  I had someone ask me why hand sand it,   I think when its done I'll have more appreciation for it, and  for the sheer fact of being able to say I did lol.Currently trying to find a NASA hood to repalce the stock hood.

[Soaring]

The bondo will absorb water from underneath the holes as well.  But, every body repair shop uses some sort of bondo to make the surface perfectly smooth, so you aren't doing anything that a professional shop wouldn't do.  The bondo has to be paper thin when you are finished though. 

[Meric]

Im guessing 70% of all the bondo work is paper thin but I think at the bondos thickest point Im looking at like an 8th inch. As far as the bondo asorbing water from underneigth I should be good on that one.  When addressing the rust hole issues I pulled the head liner down and treated the underside with rust neutralizer, Covered the reverse sides of the bondo work with alluminized tape and put two wet coats on the underside.  Like I said this is my first project, and it my opinion better to over do something then under do it. lol  Was just trying to squash any and all rust issues.  After the passangers side exterior is done with wet coat/primer Im gonna pull the fenders off and get the back sides, inside of door. the enterior will be the next thing to go after that. Im gonna replace the floor pans, yes floor pans the passangerside front   will need to be replaced as well. the floor pans will also be covered in a coat or two of paint.  Any and all rust will be treated. interior will then b worked over<seats headliner ect>.  My moto is do it right, do it once.  I just dont want any issue to pop back up 6 months to a year down the road.  I had lost a girl I loved more then anything, loosing her hit me so bad I went out and bought my stang to keep myself busy.  So I guess in a way Im redirecting my love for her on to the car lol. 

[66GTKFB]

It's a difficult task but it's looking good. You appear to be doing all the correct steps and using the right materials and procedures. Remember, primer will absorb moisture and pass it thru to the metal so keep the car covered, dry and get it painted ASAP.
Jim