Author Topic: sucked water in (Read 3083 times)

sexystu · « **on:** July 02, 2009, 05:41:21 PM »

hello there, new mustang owner here. Had the car five weeks now,

yesterday it rained like nothin else and i ended up dead, in a large puddle/small lake in the middle of the road

. I now know i sucked some water into the engine

( yeah yeah, read on when you've stopped laughin ! ) OK, today removed spark plugs to try to drian water out - no luck !
Anyone out there with a bit more sense than me got any ideas on how to proceed ?
Tomorrow gonna think about removing the fuel injectors to relieve the pressure, is this a good idea

OK OK i cant believe your still laughin

SERIOUSLY help

Soaring · « **Reply #1 on:** July 02, 2009, 11:10:04 PM »

Welcome to the site. First, get the damn thing out of the lake.

Now, take your oil pan off and pour out the water and tainted oil. Put it back on with a new gasket, and fill it back up with fresh oil and a new filter. If the electronics got water on them while the engine was running, you may need some extensive electronic replacements. It is difficult to analyze an engine problem on the internet. Use your own judgement about having a tow truck towing it into a Mustang dealership to fix it.

Konrad · « **Reply #2 on:** July 04, 2009, 11:53:38 AM »

If you get enough water in a cylinder while it is running you can blow it up due to hydraulic lock.

sexystu · « **Reply #3 on:** July 04, 2009, 06:25:27 PM »

Thanks for your quick replies guys, would have got back sooner but seemed to be havin PC trouble too

Firstly its back on dry land

. As it looked like i had water in the carb, i was advised to remove the spark plugs to try to relieve pressure in the cylinders, that didn't work. Next i removed the intake manifold (top section then the second bit with the injectors on it) only to reveal loads more water. Currently in the process of takin off the rocker covers and associated bits that are in the way of the cylinder heads. I believe i do have some kind of hydraulic lock goin on in there, but as yet nothing looks damaged, and i'm not aware of any electronic component damage (everything electrical seemed to work). After doin this part i will remove, drain, and refit the oil pan.
Look on the bright side, I needed an excuse to give her a good service, although this isn't exactly what i had in mind.
Shall be posting pics when i'm all done.
Anyone else with any suggestions, then please feel free to leave them here.
Thanks.

jlmark · « **Reply #4 on:** July 14, 2009, 10:35:54 PM »

Can you show that photos of the new mustang.

________________
Humidifier filters

sexystu · « **Reply #5 on:** July 15, 2009, 04:00:24 PM »

as soon as i get some pics on a site somewhere else, i'll post a link or somethin to it. (i know less bout computers than i do cars

)

by the way . . . removed and stripped engine. found 2, yes 2, bent con rods and 5 ltrs of dirty water, have pics of that too

Soaring · « **Reply #6 on:** July 15, 2009, 05:03:49 PM »

If you have the pics on your digital camera, just hit reply on here and look down to see "Additional Options" Hit that and follow the directions to load your shots from your camera. Or, you can put your pictures on "My Pictures" on your 'Puter and go to there to load them using the Additional Options below.

sexystu · « **Reply #7 on:** July 16, 2009, 04:45:36 PM »

ok, thanks, i'll get round to those photo's one day soon.

another thing i need to konw is how do you get those pins/rods that hold the piston head to the con rod out? am i right in thinkin there are two types, bushed or pressed fit. how do you tell the difference?

by the way, all your help is greatly appreciated, although i have average mechanical knowledge, this is the first time i have ever stripped an engine, never mind had to rebuild it afterwards

also it doesn't really help that anyone i know knows anythin about this engine

Soaring · « **Reply #8 on:** July 16, 2009, 06:55:57 PM »

You don't need to take the piston apart from the rod. Just take the rod off of the cam with the two bolts. Drop the cam with the bolts that hold it onto the block and you are free from the engine with the pistons and rods. However, I am not sure why you are going through all this process just because you have some water in the system. After you get the heads off, just turn the engine over from the front of the cam and it should just drain out the area of the oil pan. If there is water on top of the pistons, just use a shop vac to suck it out.

sexystu · « **Reply #9 on:** July 16, 2009, 07:25:34 PM »

yeah, the problem was i'd obviously sucked in loads of water. tried to turn it, like you said, but nothing. so lifted the engine out, removed oil pan and found two bent con rods which were locking against the crankshaft, one on each side. the engine wouldn't turn either way. once the bent rods were released and the rod/piston removed, the engine tunred over.
now i need to replace the bent rods with straight ones. but dont know how to seperate the two parts.
apart from the newly bent rods, and discovering worn big end bearings and worn main bearings, the rest of the engine is in great condition.
i think with two new rods, new bearings, gaskets and other minor service parts, it'll run like a dream.
not to mention a dam good clean and a lick of heat resistant paint here and there.
i will admit that the problem did sound minor at first, but as more and more parts were taken off to release water, things got worse. hence where i'm at now.

Soaring · « **Reply #10 on:** July 16, 2009, 07:49:52 PM »

Ok, now I understand. The pistons and bent rods need to be taken to a machine shop to have the rods separated from the pistons, and the new rods put on the new pistons. They have to be pressed on.

sexystu · « **Reply #11 on:** July 17, 2009, 04:02:53 PM »

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sexystu · « **Reply #12 on:** July 17, 2009, 04:06:35 PM »

as promised . . . some pics of, well, a wet and broken engine !

i have pics of the car lookin good before this happened, but there too big to be posted here at the moment

Soaring · « **Reply #13 on:** July 17, 2009, 04:09:24 PM »

What a mess. Did your insurance company help with the moolah to get it repaired?

sexystu · « **Reply #14 on:** July 17, 2009, 05:22:18 PM »

mmm !

i didn't even bother contacting the insurance company, since it would prolly cost me half the price of parts in excesses (insurance is funny over here for american cars)

as it happens, i think it's only gonna cost around £500 (just over $800) for new rods, all the bearings, gaskets, piston rings and i'm gonna fit a new clutch aswell (yep, it's a manual ! )

looking at some ford blue engine enamel to make it look nice when it's all back together, i hear POR-15 is great for that.

Soaring · « **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2009, 05:39:41 PM »

POR 15 is great for stopping rust and to lay down a base for paint, but it is very expensive. If you don't have any rust present, then make sure the metal of the block is clean from grease and oil, then put down a good coat of heat resistant paint. If you have rust, then for sure put down a coat of POR 15 or any other rust preventative acid we Americans can get at any hardware store. Don't get the POR 15 on your hands. It is hell to come off, so use surgical gloves.

sexystu · « **Reply #16 on:** July 17, 2009, 05:57:59 PM »

nothing seems to be rusty as such, but my 5 mins of reading bout the paint, gave me the impression that i would need the spray stuff first to give better adhesion of the paint, or is that just a marketing ploy? maybe if i had rust then yes, but i dont, a little discolouration of the metal, not rust.

POR-15 also make the paint which is supposed to be excellent, though i think it's more of an enamel which would withstand the heat even better than ordinary heat resistant paint.

so you dont think i need the spray first and just go ahead with the paint? $:-\$

i know this is all cosmetic stuff, and not really that important, giving the state the engine/car is in right now, but it'll be easier to do while it's in bits

Soaring · « **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2009, 07:23:08 PM »

POR 15 is designed to put over heavily rusted out areas on metal, and is also a good adhesive for paint. It is chemically designed to stop any rust, and to lay down a bottom to any paint you may want to add to the final outlook of your engine block. As I have said....there are other rust products that are just as effective at half the cost, but you may not be able to get them in a world which only spends pounds.

If I were you, I would just get that block as clean as possible with water and soap, and then hit it with a regular high temp paint.

Author Topic: sucked water in (Read 3083 times)

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