Author Topic: NEWBIE with 94 GT 5.0 about to pull hair out! PLEASE HELP! (Read 3637 times)

tedhontz · « **on:** December 15, 2009, 01:08:42 AM »

Hi,

I'm a newbie to this site and kind of a newbie to Mustangs. I've actually owned 11 Mustangs but I haven't owned one in 8 years. All of my old ones were 86-90's with the 5.0 and my new one is a 94 GT 5.0. To complicate things in the last 8 years I had a surgery that went bad and the medicine I was put on made me forget a lot about certain things and it makes concentrating more difficult now.

Well anyways to start out with..... let me tell you what I "think" my Mustang has. It is NOT the original engine. The engine was replaced with another 5.0 but from an 89 Police Interceptor Crown Vic. I was told I could buy 94 parts for the car and that it has a 94 distributor on it, but to remember that it uses the 87-93 firing order, so I was told.

Here is the list:

95 Cobra Manual Tranny.....so is that the same as a T5?
95 Cobra Intake ........which is what?
Cobra 24lb injectors
Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator......that part is shiny and I don't have a clue what to do with it!

BBK Edelbrock 70MM Throttle Body
C&L 75MM Mass Air Meter.......is this the same thing as a MAF sensor?
stock shifter
stock rear end.....unfortunately
2 1/2" Magnaflow h-pipe with gutted cats
flowmaster super 40 mufflers 2 1/2"

So my car has issues and before I bother you with all the issues I'd like to ask some stupid questions.

I know a MAF sensor is the mass air flow sensor but does this car have a MAP sensor as well? Some say it was replaced with the MAF sensor but autozone sells a MAP (manifold pressure)sensor for $10.

I have the check engine light on and the engine shakes when idling. I was told the timing was retarded. I can't even figure out how to advance it. I was told to untighten the distributor...how?

The car every once in a while will shake and die when idling. But once I give it gas it's fine. The car also turns over very slowly in my opinion. The battery light is constantly on. I replaced the battery and tested the alternator as good. The car still turns over slow. I do know for a fact that I have an exhaust leak where the exhaust connects with the header on the passenger side but I don't think thats the source of my problems. When I start it and it shakes bad I pull the plug on the MAF sensor and it revs up and idles better but then I plug the sensor back in, expecting it to idle back down and run like crap and it doesn't! Does that make sense?

I also have a few sensors and a vacuum line that is disconnected as well as a couple thinner harder lines with screws shoved in them. I was told that was emission stuff that was eliminated. I also think maybe some sensors are undone because of it being an older engine and not a 94???

And I have a squeak in the belt which I've pretty much determined is the tensioner pulley. I sprayed a shot of WD40 on it and that shut it up but now its worse than ever after that WD40 shot, oops. The edge of the belt also looks frayed so I'll get a new tensioner pulley.

So in the meantime does this car have a MAP sensor? Could my MAF sensor be bad? Could my tensioner problem cause it to turn over slowly or cause the engine to idle rough? Any ideas on why the battery light is on non-stop? And finally my air bag light flashes all the time, even without the car running. I just turn on the battery part of the key and it flashes twices, two seconds apart, and then stops for about 4 seconds. It's almost like its the security light or something!

I just need some answers and some places to start on this car! It seem much more complex than the older fox body stangs.

Thanks,

Ted

zebo87 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 17, 2009, 08:27:53 PM »

no you do not have a map sensor. the maf could be bad but take some carb or brake cleaner and spray the tube in the maf. also try to spray some of that cleaner around the intake and see if you have any vac leaks. for the timing a light is the best way to set the timing. without one you loosen the bolt on the distributor. its a 9/16 bolt. all you have to do is break it loose and you can move the dist when the car is running.

tedhontz · « **Reply #2 on:** December 17, 2009, 11:53:03 PM »

thanks for the help so far. One of the first things I did was remove the mass air flow sensor and I cleaned it with mass air flow cleaner. its weird that autozone is telling me there is a manifold pressure sensor called a map sensor on the car for $9.43. But I'll take your word over autozone's anyday. The odd thing is, when it runs like crap I pull the MAF sensor connector off and it revs up and is better. I would then think by reconnecting it, the car should run like crap again but it doesn't. Could that be because of the computer thinking it isn't there even though it's been reconnected? I'm starting to regret this purchase. I have a huge puddle of thick gooey oil on the ground right by the rear axle. Also my engine oil dipstick shows that is has no oil. But if I can remember right, I think it was the mustang back in the day, that I had another mustang that the oil dipstick was always wrong. And the belt tensioner is squealing now so that's another $70 for the tensioner and $35 for the belt.

zebo87 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 18, 2009, 03:53:23 PM »

i could be wrong on the map sensor but if its maf i didnt think it would have a map sensor. the thick goo could be from your differential cover. where the driveshaft bolts up.

tedhontz · « **Reply #4 on:** December 18, 2009, 04:25:53 PM »

the goo is definitely coming from the differential cover on the rear end. It's soaked looking. Is that as simple as unbolting the cover and putting in a new seal or is that a bigger job?

zebo87 · « **Reply #5 on:** December 19, 2009, 09:09:27 AM »

depends on whats actually leaking but yes its easy to unbolt the coers and the driveshaft to check it out.

tedhontz · « **Reply #6 on:** December 19, 2009, 11:21:46 AM »

i just looked under it and it looks like either someone tried to jack the car up using on the differential cover or he ran over something in the road. so its got a huge gap at the bottom of the cover. Not nice....

Soaring · « **Reply #7 on:** December 19, 2009, 04:14:57 PM »

Get a new cover to replace the damaged one, and put on a new gasket. Fill her up with new 90 weight oil and you should be good to go. I suggest you use 75W90 weight synthetic gear oil.

tedhontz · « **Reply #8 on:** December 19, 2009, 05:23:04 PM »

Thanks! Hopefully that'll take care of that problem. Then I'll be back to dealing with all the original problems that I haven't tackled yet.

msclecrmn · « **Reply #9 on:** December 19, 2009, 05:30:32 PM »

If you have hoses that are not attached or are not closed off properly you would have vacum leaks that would make your car run rough. I don't think there is any difference between your 5.0 and the one in my '91, but when you adjust the timing there is a dummy plug that needs to be removed near the bottom of the distributor while you are adjusting the timing to adjust it properly. You will need a timing light also. And on the serpentine belt, replace the belt first then see if that fixes the speak or squeal, it might be just an old belt making noise. If it still makes the noise, you can buy a bearing that goes in the tensioner cheaper than buying the hole thing. Neither the belt or the tensioner will make it run rough. You can more than likely find a used differential cover at a junk yard, Don't drive the car without fixing it, if there isn't diff lube in it it will tear up the clutches, and that is an expensive fix. My advice to you if you are trying to do the work yourself is buy a book at a parts store to help you and follow it. Let me know how things go, I don't mind helping, sometimes trying to fix something you don't understand can do more damage than good.

zebo87 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 20, 2009, 10:09:40 AM »

it depends on which engine he hes. my dist doesnt have the dummy plug on it. a light is the best way. i agree with getting the manual. they do help. also agree on the junkyard diff cover idea. you can find a lot of cheap and good things in them.

tedhontz · « **Reply #11 on:** December 30, 2009, 12:32:45 AM »

Thanks guys for all the replies and help. Here is a pic of my differential cover. I know it's bent. But what I'm scared of is that the actual differential/rear end assembly might be bent as well. Is this even possibly or likely? Here is a pic. I've been fighting to get it on here so hopefully it will work this time. I can get a chrome diff cover with new gasket for $29 on ebay. But if I'm gonna need a whole new rear end then I don't want to waste my money. Also I did drive it dry, or mostly dry but only for about 3 minutes. I did get onto it in those 3 minutes but i pulled over in a parking lot and noticed smoke coming out of the middle of the drivers side rim. I smelled horrible. But it also looks to me like the brake pads are touching the rotors, im not sure. I shifts and drives fine and I got it home with no problem. It's a car that's gonna need a lot of work to be restored....well here is the pic, hopefully. Thanks in advance for the help! Ted[attach=1]

msclecrmn · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2009, 02:24:29 PM »

Nothings impossible but no more damage than I see in that pic I doubt there is any internal damage, when you get the cover off you will see that the stuff inside is built preety tough. Gear oil stinks pretty bad and when it hot its even worse. I'll bet the smoke was out of the rearend via the wheel bearings. When you change the cover you probably should check the wheel bearing also, if you ran it dry the bearings are probably spent. If you put it bach together with out changing the bearings, listen for noise from the rearend especially going around corners. That would tell you the bearings are bad.

tedhontz · « **Reply #13 on:** December 30, 2009, 02:31:16 PM »

I'm not so worried about the internal parts but I'm concerned that the actual differential, were the cover bolts on to, is also bent. Do you know how much gear oil I should fill this back up with? Of course assuming that when i put the new cover and gasket on, that it actually seals.

msclecrmn · « **Reply #14 on:** December 30, 2009, 02:52:03 PM »

I am at work but I can look at my book this evening and get back to you on the fluid amount. I doubt the mounting suface is bent, because it is casted metal and it doesn't bend much before it breaks. In addition to gear oil you should probably put some additive also in it. I can't for the life of me remember the name of it but it does help with noise and friction on the gears. I will see what the tolerances are for your wheel bearings so you can check that while you have the diff cover off, it would be the time to change the wheel bearing if you need to the clips that hold your axles in place are behind the cover inside the gear housing.

tedhontz · « **Reply #15 on:** January 29, 2010, 11:08:22 AM »

Hi Guys,

Well I just received my new differential cover and seal. Now I need to know how much gear oil I need to put into the differential after I put my new cover on. There has also been mention of adding a specific lubrication enhancer to make it even better. I just need to know what, and how much of what, to buy so I can get this job done. I really appreciate the help!

Thanks Again!

Ted

Soaring · « **Reply #16 on:** January 29, 2010, 02:51:19 PM »

It will take just under 3 quarts of 75-90 synthetic gear oil. When it starts to run out the plug, you are full. Also, get a 4 oz bottle of friction modifier and put that in first. You can get a pump that fits the quart bottles.

tedhontz · « **Reply #17 on:** January 29, 2010, 04:13:58 PM »

Thanks for the help! I'll let everyone know if that fixes that problem. Then I'll just be down to fixing all my other issues!

Soaring · « **Reply #18 on:** January 29, 2010, 05:37:07 PM »

Good luck with it, and let us know how we can possibly help with other issues.

Author Topic: NEWBIE with 94 GT 5.0 about to pull hair out! PLEASE HELP! (Read 3637 times)

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