Author Topic: carb problems (Read 9328 times)

302supra · « **on:** April 12, 2009, 12:14:56 AM »

ok i am running a holly 600 cfm on my car and it is running rich, what i have in the engin is - 40 over flat tops 351w heads, 512 lift 280 duration comp cams cam, factory gt 4bbl intake and headers ( had to run theas for clearince reasons) and new evrything, factory ford ignition with a msd coil ,with a holly 600 cfm carb.

its not running extreamly rich but i can back the mixture screews all the way out and it still runs rich i swaped the jets out for 55's and still. also it stubles whin acceleration unless you punch it to the flore.

any ideas will be great.

and yess some day i would like to get a mustang!!

it is a toyota with a ford 302 in it!!!

Soaring · « **Reply #1 on:** April 12, 2009, 12:23:06 AM »

Why are you running a Holley on a Toyota engine? Go to a Toyota site and ask those guys which carb you should be running with that Supra.

302supra · « **Reply #2 on:** April 12, 2009, 12:24:07 AM »

its not a toyota engin its a ford 302 out of an 84 gt. i mean come on how would i run 351w heads on a toyota engin? pleas read befor jumping to conclusions.

also the flotes have bin ajusted and i am running the ford on block fuel pump. the carb is new so i dont know what the problem is.

Soaring · « **Reply #3 on:** April 12, 2009, 12:35:23 AM »

Oh, sorry. It's late and I have had some California red.

If you are talking about the idle adjustment screws, then you will only get a reaction from that carburetor at idle when adjusting them. Your jets will mostly determine the richness that your carb runs. 55's may still be too large. Drop down to 45's and I'll bet you will notice a big difference in performance. I have never had a Holley that gave me good performance. I stick with Edelbrock and Motorcraft on a Ford engine.

302supra · « **Reply #4 on:** April 12, 2009, 12:43:22 AM »

Quote from: Soaring on April 12, 2009, 12:35:23 AM

Oh, sorry. It's late and I have had some California red. If you are talking about the idle adjustment screws, then you will only get a reaction from that carburetor at idle when adjusting them. Your jets will mostly determine the richness that your carb runs. 55's may still be too large. Drop down to 45's and I'll bet you will notice a big difference in performance. I have never had a Holley that gave me good performance. I stick with Edelbrock and Motorcraft on a Ford engine.

lol np well i am talking about the screews on the side there is one on eatch side of the carb on the meatering block. i will try the 45's and see what it will do, i thot about trying to go with a motorcraft but i didnt think they made one that was in the 600 to 650 cfm range.

Soaring · « **Reply #5 on:** April 12, 2009, 01:57:38 AM »

Quote from: 302supra on April 12, 2009, 12:43:22 AM

Quote from: Soaring on April 12, 2009, 12:35:23 AM
Oh, sorry. It's late and I have had some California red. If you are talking about the idle adjustment screws, then you will only get a reaction from that carburetor at idle when adjusting them. Your jets will mostly determine the richness that your carb runs. 55's may still be too large. Drop down to 45's and I'll bet you will notice a big difference in performance. I have never had a Holley that gave me good performance. I stick with Edelbrock and Motorcraft on a Ford engine.

lol np well i am talking about the screews on the side there is one on eatch side of the carb on the meatering block. i will try the 45's and see what it will do, i thot about trying to go with a motorcraft but i didnt think they made one that was in the 600 to 650 cfm range.

No, most Motorcraft 4100's were only 480 CFM, but there were variations. There was a reason for that, because the engines back then didn't have all the new upgraded go fast stuff that you guys can get. Here are some of those variations.
These following numbers are for Motorcraft/Autolite carbs. This number can be found on the side of the float bowl, right behind the accelerator pump rod, inside of a circle. The number on the right corresponds with the cfm rating on the left. The first numbers are the venturi size, the second is the corresponding cfm.
These numbers are for 2BBL carbs only.

Number = CFM
.98 = 190
1.01 = 240
1.02 = 245
1.08 = 287
1.14 = 300
1.21 = 351
1.23 = 356
1.33 = 424

These numbers are for 4BBL carbs.
1.08= 480cfm
1.12= 600cfm
and a rare very rare
1.19= 670cfm.

302supra · « **Reply #6 on:** April 12, 2009, 09:35:55 AM »

ok cool i will look at what we have on the shelf, in the mean time i will also try the 45's on the holly.

302supra · « **Reply #7 on:** April 12, 2009, 05:20:05 PM »

just to ask how much truble would it be to swap to a fuelinjection setup?

Soaring · « **Reply #8 on:** April 12, 2009, 06:00:22 PM »

It has been done many times, so obviously not all that difficult. You would need to decide where to get the computer, wiring , etc. though. There is information about this swap on the internet. Just google it. I have thought about doing that on my 81 F-150, but just too lazy.

302supra · « **Reply #9 on:** April 12, 2009, 06:27:58 PM »

yeah i have i have an ho upper intake and 2 ecm's and a new set of injectors. but i need the rest to finish the setup like the crank sensor and the pice that mounts to the balancer for the sensor, lower intake, timeing cover with mount for the crank sensor, map sensor and so on. so i am wondering if the maf setup would be better than the speed dinsity setup.

Soaring · « **Reply #10 on:** April 12, 2009, 07:19:08 PM »

Sounds like you need to spend some time at the local junk yard yanking parts.

302supra · « **Reply #11 on:** April 12, 2009, 07:34:52 PM »

i wish it was that easy lol the only good you pick and pull one around is over an hour away, the others are the we pick we pull you get what we dont want ones lol and charge so much more. i will try my luck on craigs list lol and auctions.

Soaring · « **Reply #12 on:** April 12, 2009, 09:24:31 PM »

An hour away doesn't sound so bad for a major project like this one.

302supra · « **Reply #13 on:** April 13, 2009, 10:26:05 AM »

Quote from: Soaring on April 12, 2009, 09:24:31 PM

An hour away doesn't sound so bad for a major project like this one.

well its not its just the fact that the only thing i have to drive is my bronco and it only gets around 10 mpg, so we are talking about a 1 hour drive at 70 mph and 10 mpg so that is 7 galin and thin $2 a gal so it would be $14 in gass for one way.
$28 + or - some for wind and trafic $10 more and i would have filled the tank twice in one trip. thats why i hesatat to go.

Soaring · « **Reply #14 on:** April 13, 2009, 02:57:39 PM »

Quote from: 302supra on April 13, 2009, 10:26:05 AM

Quote from: Soaring on April 12, 2009, 09:24:31 PM
An hour away doesn't sound so bad for a major project like this one.

well its not its just the fact that the only thing i have to drive is my bronco and it only gets around 10 mpg, so we are talking about a 1 hour drive at 70 mph and 10 mpg so that is 7 galin and thin $2 a gal so it would be $14 in gass for one way.
$28 + or - some for wind and trafic $10 more and i would have filled the tank twice in one trip. thats why i hesatat to go.

I hear ya.' That's what my '81 F-150 gets too. I just didn't drive it back in the summer when gas was 4 bux. Just keep checking your local paper in the parts for sale section, Craig's list, and thoose free car advertising mags at your local convenience store. Something might show up.

302supra · « **Reply #15 on:** April 13, 2009, 08:56:28 PM »

Quote from: Soaring on April 13, 2009, 02:57:39 PM

Quote from: 302supra on April 13, 2009, 10:26:05 AM
Quote from: Soaring on April 12, 2009, 09:24:31 PM
An hour away doesn't sound so bad for a major project like this one.

well its not its just the fact that the only thing i have to drive is my bronco and it only gets around 10 mpg, so we are talking about a 1 hour drive at 70 mph and 10 mpg so that is 7 galin and thin $2 a gal so it would be $14 in gass for one way.
$28 + or - some for wind and trafic $10 more and i would have filled the tank twice in one trip. thats why i hesatat to go.
I hear ya.' That's what my '81 F-150 gets too. I just didn't drive it back in the summer when gas was 4 bux. Just keep checking your local paper in the parts for sale section, Craig's list, and thoose free car advertising mags at your local convenience store. Something might show up.

yeah i posted an add on craigs list and have had 2 replys already lol.

Soaring · « **Reply #16 on:** April 14, 2009, 10:48:09 PM »

There ya go. See.....?

302supra · « **Reply #17 on:** April 21, 2009, 04:23:52 PM »

well thows deals fell threw, i rejeted the carb and it is running fine except that my back two berals started to dump fuel i have to shut the neadle and seat all the way off. thin at moments it will drive fine at others it wont i think i just need to fined another carb to run on it till i get the fi setup. thin to add to all of that my rear main started to leek, i guess it dryed out or something while it sat all winter.

Soaring · « **Reply #18 on:** April 21, 2009, 08:54:37 PM »

Yeah, sounds like you need to put a kit in it and make some adjustments.

302supra · « **Reply #19 on:** April 21, 2009, 09:34:34 PM »

Quote from: Soaring on April 21, 2009, 08:54:37 PM

Yeah, sounds like you need to put a kit in it and make some adjustments.

its already bin dun buy a local pro and it still is having problems and we cant figure out why. i have a 750 that i know is good that we pulled of my friends 460 bronco that i am going to try.

Author Topic: carb problems (Read 9328 times)

Navigation

Mustangs for sale

Top Posters