Topic: 97 GT dieing in hot weather problem

[brianrackers2009]

my 97 gt is having a problem in hot weather.  it will drive for a decent distance and then start to loose power and miss and spit spatter unitl dieing.  it will turn over just fine and barelly start with a very bad miss but wont go anywhere.  now if you let it sit for a while it will start up fine and drive until it does it again.  ive repalced the crank sensor, fuel pump went out a while back and replaced it with a oriellys pump. ive heard those are junk and could be the problem but it kicks on but it may not be pushn what it should when hot i dont know.  i thought it could be the two coils maybe.  any help would be nice

[Jeff73Mach1]

Have you checked computer codes?  Did you by chance wash the engine recently?

Start with checking codes and then confirm by searching for the procedure to test the part-don't just replace it (with few exceptions)

Could be coils.  Could be something else like a temperature sensor but your computer probably knows the answer.  It isn't always as simple as reading the code and swapping the part all of the time and that is an expensive way to fix a car.

How many lies on the car?  Ever replaced the fuel filter?

[brianrackers2009]

replaced fuel filter when i did the pump...  how would i check the computer?  it never throws a dummy light.  and on a typical morning it will studder for about a mile and then plain out until it stalls later in the day.  iv done plugs and wires a few months ago.  i put a crank sensor on it which helped a little bit i thought.  i figure it could either be the pump or coils but i just want to hear some responces before i dump money one way or another...   thanks

[brianrackers2009]

havent washed the engine and the car probably has around 160,000 or so... odometer stopped workn at 145,000  put a trans in it but still original motor kinda surprises me...

[Jeff73Mach1]

If I had to guess I would say coil packs are the primary suspect.

I stole the following test procedure

1     Set the dial on your voltmeter to "Ohms."

2     Touch one of the leads on the voltmeter to one of the electrical terminals on the coil pack. There are two terminals: one on the top of the coil pack and one on the bottom. It does not matter which lead from the voltmeter touches which terminal on the coil pack. Then, touch the other lead on the voltmeter to the other terminal on the coil pack.

3     Check the resistance. The display on the voltmeter should read between "0.0" and "0.05" Ohms. If it reads higher than "0.05" Ohms, then you need to replace the coil pack.


Read more: How to Diagnose a Bad Coil Pack | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6586133_diagnose-bad-coil-pack.html#ixzz10G9ZvSHl

[Soaring]

It's a coil. 

[97snakebite]

It's a coil.

its not a coil....if its a bad coil he would have power issues at start up....

hows your idle??? when the motor is cold at start up does it idle fine for bout 5 -10 second then sound like its struggling?

[brianrackers2009]

Hey guye havent been on for a while.  We moved.  So the mustang found out a o2 sensor was bad thought it fixed it. Car doesnt hesitate when started and drives very smooth.  Now today it dies again.  But it wouldnt completetly die.  Would still be running but choked out.  Im getting tired of this freakin problem especially when my fiance drives the car with our son and i have to worry about them constantly.  When help is greatful.

[TheJ]

I'm not sure how your mustangs set up but it could be the other o2 if you have one for each bank.  Does it have the same symptoms as before?  Is the engine light on or do you have any codes?

[brianrackers2009]

Its about the same symptoms.  The light bulbfor the engine light is out so m sure it may be on again.  There are 4 o2 sensors all together but 70 bucks a pop it digs in.  Il try to run codes on it tomorrow. 

[brianrackers2009]

Ran the codes. Says po136 circuit malfunction bank one sensor two.   Po 430 catalyst system efficiency thrreshold bank 2 both systems are too lean.

[TheJ]

The P0136 could be a o2 sensor and would explain the symptoms.  The P0430 could mean that you catalyst isn't working.  My suggestion would be to make sure that the wires to each o2 sensor are good.  Most likely its the o2 sensor but codes don't tell you whats wrong they just point you in the right direction.  Try www.rockauto.com for o2 sensors they have good prices.

[brianrackers2009]

Right,  the o2 gets expensive of course..........  So im wondering if this is whats really causing the dying problems 

[TheJ]

It would explain the symptoms because the computer is running the car too lean which causes the sputtering and what not.  Does this happen only when it gets to operating temp which is when the computer takes info from the o2s and uses it as an air fuel sensor.  I would hate to say yeah its 100% the o2 sensor with out actually looking at the car.  What I would do is a visual inspection of the o2 wiring and if it checks out I would replace the o2.  As for the after the cat o2 it just checks to make sure the cat is working and I would say wait to see after you get rid of the other code first.

Hope this helps

[brianrackers2009]

Itl do it well after the car is at operating temp.  The wires look fine no bare wires and end connections are made.  Yeah iv heard the predator tuner can shut off the rear two o2's but i dont feel like payn that right now as the car doesnt have anything past a bigger throttle body and exhaust.  It makes sence the o2 would be bad because after replacing the one on the pass side the car ran great.  I just wasnt too familiar with with going bad then the other going bad almost immediatly.  I hope it would fix the problem in hot weather thats what has had me so confused.  In cold weather the thing runs no problems for however long, but when it heats up now that spring summer is here it throws it all off.  I really appreciate your help, thanks

[brianrackers2009]

Oh and i replaced the pass. Side o2 which is bank 1 correct?    And its sayn circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 2.  So if the rear dont change the air/fuel of the motor do you still think the other o2 could be the problem?   Iv read differnt sides from other people in forums.  Reading one thing then reading another just confuses me n what to really believe.

[TheJ]

Bank 1 is the side that has cylinder #1, I'm not sure if that's the passenger side.  The P0136 is most likely you problem.  Like I said before it may not be the o2 sensor, it could be that the wires have too much resistance in them.  The P0430 is emissions related and you will likely fail emissions testing but you cant test this before fixing your other problem first.

here's some info about the codes

P0136
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0136

P0430
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0430

[brianrackers2009]

Alright if thats the case i think cylinder one is on the drivers side.  Im takin it to the shop tomorrow and thhe mechanic and i are spendin the day on it to try to get it to mess up and figure all of this out.  I did find a pretty dry rotted vaccum line to day the looked like is was compressing almost shut so maybe the helped something as maybe when it gets hot it compresses shut and messes with somthin on the intake.  Thanks for you input hopefully i can crack this biatch 2morrow and il repost

[bubba1026]

this might sound dumb, but if you have done any exhaust work to your car, check to see how close your fuel lines are running to the exhaust. i have had maney people come to me at my shop with this exact issue. chances are that the fuel lines arnt the prob, but i would check it anyway. the issue with the fuel lines is that the fuel will start to boil and shut the car off. have had this issue at the track a few times with my old ranger

[brianrackers2009]

That  can make sence for sure.  But the exhaust has been on the car forever and ran fine lines havent moved.  Il check it out tomorrow tho.  This sucks iv tried searching forums over and over and cant find anybody having this problem only in hot weather.